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Routes in The V Buttress

Crabnebula T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triplet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Working Man's Lament T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Weston, Chris Magness, Zeb Jakub
Page Views: 687 total, 11/month
Shared By: chris magness on Nov 25, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Excellent climbing. Expect some typical Cathedral spice... you can't pull through on gear.

P1: Start as for FOF. Climb a 5.9 hand crack for 15’ until it turns into a water groove at a horizontal. Layback the water groove (5.11) past two bolts to a second, more prominent horizontal (gear), mantle up onto a slab past the horizontal and continue to follow the disappearing water groove past two bolts (crux at second bolt). Step up and right at second bolt to a flake system and a small cam placement. Continue up and left to another bolt. Climb straight up to a ledge, another bolt and another hard mantle. Run it out on easy terrain to a 2 bolt anchor on a large ledge. (5.11+) 120’

P2: Friction climb straight up past 3 bolts (5.10b). Follow dirty but easy rock the top.

A variation has been climbed to this pitch at a similar grade. Step right after the first bolt into a flake. Protect with micro cams and step back left to the third bolt (5.10a R). 80’

Location

Begin at a small stance 200’ below the access ledge.

Protection

Cams from .3 to a #1. Doubles of #’s .4, .75

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Looks great! Dec 22, 2012