Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Euan Cameron, Julie Wright, 24th November 2012
Page Views: 796 total · 11/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Nov 25, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Rubster takes you to the highest point of the rocks that form this section, and provides fine exposed face climbing on the second pitch.

1. 5.10b Climb the arete, either by laybacking the edge or using small crimps on the left side. At the top of the arete move up the slab and climb the short face and slab up to the anchors.

2. 5.10a Climb up the slabby face to the obvious break just below the midway point. From here continue up the steeper head wall to a precarious couple of last moves up to the spectacular summit.

Location

Located to the right of Fat Bastard.

Walk around the large boulder on the right of the area. Scramble up some rounded boulders to get to the base of the climb.

Protection

1. 5 bolts, double ring anchors
2. 6 bolts, ring and bolt anchor

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10b
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10b
It is possible to climb both pitches in one long pitch, but you will need to extend the first bolt of the second pitch, and then rap the pitches individually, as there will be too much rope drag to be lowered. Nov 25, 2012
Ryan DeBruyn
Redlands, CA
  5.10b
Ryan DeBruyn   Redlands, CA
  5.10b
Bit of a scramble to get to the start. Once there you'll enjoy a series of nice moves to the top. First move gets your heart beating immediately, pull a sweet layback on the arete and end it with a fun move over a buldge to the first anchor. Bring a snack or lunch and enjoy the view on top. Sep 25, 2013