The Wave of Mutilation
Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.4 from 14
> Wasatch Range
> Little Cottonwo…
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More: saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Named after the Pixies song, this route provides great climbing, exposure, and altitude. The crux of this route is only 20 feet up the first pitch. It involves steep friction while traversing right. It is protected with bomber bolts and the fall is mellow. After the crux, the pitch climbs nearly straight up past 5.9 jugs and crimps to a two bolt anchor in a shallow chimney. The second pitch is a "4x4" pitch which involves climbing up and right via the path of least resistance to the bottom of a 5.6 flake. Clip a bolt and climb the flake and cracks to a two bolt anchor at a stance. Pitch three: Climb up and right to a chickenhead. Sling it and commit to a mantle. After the mantle climb past one bolt and chickenheads to the base of the slab that contains the routes Snow Queens and Ice Fairies and Thats Rebolting. Sling a bunch of chickenheads and climb out (right) toward the edge of the formation. Clip the bolt and climb up past bolts (5.9) through really clean granite arriving at a chain anchor at a stance. Note: This pitch intersects with Snow Queens and Ice Fairies. To stay on route, climb up and right staying near the edge. Pitch four: Climb along the edge past bolts, a #2 cam placement behind a flake, into a sea of dark chickenheads. Follow the bolts ending with an exciting finish at the anchor for The Gills. Rap the route with one (60M) rope. One rap from the Gills to a SUB ANCHOR hidden under a roof/dihedral west of the middle of pitch four, one rap to the chain anchor on top of pitch 3, one rap east to a big ledge, then walk east to a large chain anchor and rap one more time.
The route is located in the gulley below the fin. To find the start of the route, locate an orange piton and climb up and right of it past a bulge to a ledge. The first pitch to this climb starts about 25 feet off the ground. The approach has been free soloed and also roped up for. It is about 5.6 ish and exposed.
draws, slings, one #2 camalot, optional #0.0 metolius tcu for the sea of chickenheads.
The exciting 3rd pitch slab
Looking down at the third pitch
the third rap to the ledge
Steve Zissou on the fourth pitch
The targets represent the belay stations. The green lines represent the raps with a single 60 meter rope. Each line represents one rap.
The latest in climbing fashion 2012
4th and last pitch with "The Gills" on the left and above
This is the start of the route with the piton
Old cord at first anchor could use some updating...
Happy to clip the bolt after the exposed traverse on the third pitch. Props to Bill Robins for that traverse.
Starting the 5.10+ friction traverse on the first pitch
The 5.6 chickenhead mantle at the start of the third pitch.