Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: tp,tda,ts
Page Views: 2,328 total · 29/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Nov 25, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Named after the Pixies song, this route provides great climbing, exposure, and altitude. The crux of this route is only 20 feet up the first pitch. It involves steep friction while traversing right. It is protected with bomber bolts and the fall is mellow. After the crux, the pitch climbs nearly straight up past 5.9 jugs and crimps to a two bolt anchor in a shallow chimney. The second pitch is a "4x4" pitch which involves climbing up and right via the path of least resistance to the bottom of a 5.6 flake. Clip a bolt and climb the flake and cracks to a two bolt anchor at a stance. Pitch three: Climb up and right to a chickenhead. Sling it and commit to a mantle. After the mantle climb past one bolt and chickenheads to the base of the slab that contains the routes Snow Queens and Ice Fairies and Thats Rebolting. Sling a bunch of chickenheads and climb out (right) toward the edge of the formation. Clip the bolt and climb up past bolts (5.9) through really clean granite arriving at a chain anchor at a stance. Note: This pitch intersects with Snow Queens and Ice Fairies. To stay on route, climb up and right staying near the edge. Pitch four: Climb along the edge past bolts, a #2 cam placement behind a flake, into a sea of dark chickenheads. Follow the bolts ending with an exciting finish at the anchor for The Gills. Rap the route with one (60M) rope. One rap from the Gills to a SUB ANCHOR hidden under a roof/dihedral west of the middle of pitch four, one rap to the chain anchor on top of pitch 3, one rap east to a big ledge, then walk east to a large chain anchor and rap one more time.


The route is located in the gulley below the fin. To find the start of the route, locate an orange piton and climb up and right of it past a bulge to a ledge. The first pitch to this climb starts about 25 feet off the ground. The approach has been free soloed and also roped up for. It is about 5.6 ish and exposed.


draws, slings, one #2 camalot, optional #0.0 metolius tcu for the sea of chickenheads.


Stevie Nacho
Stevie Nacho   Utah
The bolts on Snow Queens and Ice Fairies and Thats Rebolting have been replaced so all these routes now offer good climbing with modern protection in the exact spots as the first ascents. A good slab crag high in the sky.
-tda Nov 25, 2012
First pitch should clean up with more ascents. Pitchs 3&4 are good.
What's the route directly below last rap chains? May 3, 2013
  5.10+ R
  5.10+ R
Good route! The first 2 pitches are of ok quality but the last two more than make up for it with very high quality rock and features. The 3rd pitch leader must minimize rope drag as some hard moves are still required as you pull onto the belay ledge. If you're short, you may want bring a stick clip as a few bolts are just out of reach. Oct 23, 2016
5.10a slab climbers should not be deterred by the 10+ rating. No doubt the first crux could be stopper. HOWEVER, it is relatively easy to fall then tension past this move. Especially if you have a stiff draw in hand.

Just be sure to do some pure friction climbing like Kermit's Wad, The Final Link, etc and this will feel way more comfortable for you. The money pitches offer super fun exposure and are totally worth the effort. Hats off to the F. Ascentionists.

The approach could be kind of nasty and hard to see if the trail gets covered by leaves or summer growth. We cut up too late to go near Lizard Head and tried to surf scree and scrub oak by line of sight. This ended up being too early and some friends pointed out there are clear pathways if you stay on the Fin trail a little longer. When you get to the scree made by the new-ish rockfall in the second big scree you cross on the regular Fin trail. This is just before the Fin trail cuts up into the Church Gully. I'm not sure this sandy slope will ever hold a decent trail so its probably for the best that nothing has been truly cut in.

The first belay has lots of scrub oak. Nov 6, 2016
Alex Lemieux
Salt Lake City, UT
Alex Lemieux   Salt Lake City, UT
The approach: use the new trail as for the Fin and cut up right to end up on the left side (west) of base of Lizard Head. Trash up the gully separating Lizard Head and The Fin and cut left across gully to base of route (not easy to locate).

The last 2 pitches are awesome, the first 2 not so much. Bring extra webbing to replace the old tat at the first anchor if you have some, we didn't have any. Having a small rack of cams up to #2 came in handy on pitch 1 and 2. Bring many slings for pitch 3 to minimize rope drag. Expect fun exciting slab climbing! May 18, 2019