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Routes in 02. Simpson Wall

Bart Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barts Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crusty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ground's Keeper Willy V4 6B
Homer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Butterfly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lisa's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Maggie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Burns TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Set The Controls For The Heart Of The Sun TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ships Prow, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Show Bob TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smithers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: PS and PD 1995
Page Views: 292 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jonathan Spencer on Nov 24, 2012
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

Climb up a blocky face past gear and one pin to a ledge. Clip a bolt and climb straight up the face to gain the prominent arete and another bolt. Finish up the arete. No anchors on top, belay off gear (Careful-blocky and possibly loose) or tree.

It is slightly run out between the first and second bolt.

Location

The farthest route downstream in the Simpson's area.

Protection

Standard rack, pin, 2 bolts, No anchors

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
5.10b
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
5.10b
What is this, what are the details? Jun 22, 2012
P. Sully  
 
The correct name is The Ship's Prow. 5.10 mixed route on a prominent arete.

Climb up a blocky face past gear and one pin to a ledge. Clip a bolt and climb straight up the face to gain the arete and another bolt. Finish up the arete. No anchors on top, belay off gear or tree.

The backside (upstream) side of this formation is a 5.12 top-rope route called "set the controls for the heart of the sun". hard finger cracks at the top of this one. Fun to TR if you do Ships.

This is the farthest route downstream in the Simpson's area.

It is slightly run out between the first and second bolt. FA: PS & PD '95 Oct 16, 2012
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
5.10b
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
5.10b
The photo of this route is very foreshortened. The face climbing at the top is about 30' and looks like 10 in this photo. This may be another candidate for new hardware, pin is rusted (probably don't need it) and top-anchors are pretty tricky. Belaying from the large tree back off the cliff can cause some potential for a dangerous swing at the topout. Great route! I have TR'd the arete and a direct face climb to the left of the arete 10' that is thin and sustained, another ~10c. Jan 17, 2013

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