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Routes in Near Downs

Abridged Version, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belly of the Dragon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fool of a Took T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghostwriter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Wight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight Outta Mordor S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There and Back Again T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thrain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Thror T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 1 T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown 2 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
West Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Joel McKillop Chris Hirsch Anthony Schwartz
Page Views: 1,820 total, 30/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Nov 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

A super fun moderate that starts with some face climbing to a high bolt leading to a steep hand/fist crack. Follow the crack to its end at a ledge, step onto the face following a flake to a second bolt. Crystal pinch your way past more bolts to an exciting arete finish. You may want to sling the top horn for the follower to protect the final moves before the traverse to the anchors. Numerous cruxes and amazing exposure at the end.

Location

Northwest ridge of the formation

Protection

single rack from a red c3 to a #3, 6 bolts, bolted rappel anchors, optional double length, single 70m.

Photos

Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
 
Ryan Emery   Black Hills, SD
 
Easily one of the best 5.9s in CSP. Don't pass it up! Aug 6, 2017
Tater Tot
Custer, SD
  5.9
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
  5.9
Great job you guys! I have heard people call this route everything from 5.8 to 5.10a. My opinion is that it is one of the park's best 5.9s. Jul 6, 2015
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.9+
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.9+
sweet route. good right from the start going to the first bolt. 5.9+ seemed appropriate but that could be due to the fact that i suck at crack climbing but the route seemed to stay on top of you the whole time and didn't really let up until the very end. what ever grade this settles in at it is definitely worth getting on it. Jul 11, 2013
BBQ
  5.9-
BBQ  
  5.9-
Loved it! This line is sick! Great pro through the cracks and the bolt placements are spot on. Thanks for the super-fun route, guys! Keep up the good work! Jun 8, 2013