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Routes in 09. White Wall

Three Paths to Glory (Wayne's Woute) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birth Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bozooka TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
C-section TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chunks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Embraceable You TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Groove Machine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Superchunks T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Arete 5.10 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 478 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jonathan Spencer on Nov 21, 2012
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Private property. use common sense. Details
Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

Boulder to left-facing flake. layback this till it ends. Crank up and right, then step back left toward bolt then crank to top.

Location

Between Birth Canal and Chunks, below left facing flaring flake. Behind small tree.

Protection

Standard rack. no anchors.

Photos

P. Sully
  5.9 PG13
P. Sully  
  5.9 PG13
If you go left & avoid the flakes it turns into 5.11 climbing with no/very little gear. You essentially end up on Bozooka. we TR'd this variation but never led it this way.

The classic "groove move" goes straight up till you hit the jugs. Kinda a heel-hook reach thing. I remember good yellow TCU here w/ a pink tricam back-up if you want it. hand traversing right to the jugs on Chunks Direct is only slightly easier and this route often gets led that way.

at the top you can also continue up the shambly corner instead of stepping left and clipping the bolt; easier but not as fun. Jan 24, 2013
Nick Brehm
Cincinnati, OH
  5.9 PG13
Nick Brehm   Cincinnati, OH
  5.9 PG13
After initial layback, cool committing mantle move over less than stellar gear. Almost got suckered out left to what I think is Boozooka below the bulge 15ft below the bolt, but glad I bailed right to the jug flakes on Chunks Direct before traversing back to gain the the bolt.

Could be a cool var to go left and avoid the flakes? Jan 16, 2013
P. Sully
  5.9 PG13
P. Sully  
  5.9 PG13
One of my favorite routes on this wall. FA Paul Delapp/Paul Sullivan 1993

thin pro at bottom till you can sink a good #6 stopper. layback up flake to stance. Climb up & slightly right to gain jugs/flakes(crux). Step left till under bolt on upper face. climb straight up past lone bolt to top. 65'

This route is mistakenly called Bozooka in the Horst guide. Nov 25, 2012