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Routes in El Riel

EL FANTASMA DE CANTERVILLE S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Dinamico T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
El Duo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El Fantasma De Gasparin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Gusanito De Fuego S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Riel T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Show Debe Seguir S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haztelo (??) (left variation) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Haztelo Panchito S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Mariposa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Primera T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Cabe Duda S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rasguna Las Piedras S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TIRO AL BLANCO S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Lactea S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 238 total · 4/month
Shared By: nate post on Nov 19, 2012
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Description

This is one of the left most routes in zone el Riel. A little finesse and balance get you up the face next to a left facing corner. The crux comes while negotiating through the small roofs then its
easy going to the anchors.

Location

Zona el Riel. At the far left

Protection

Half a dozen draws should do it.

Photos

This one has a few variations, not including the left arete which is easier but run out climbing. I'm not sure if they have names, but:

5.8 (3 bolts to anchors): Follow the bolt line and grab for the left arete. Don't turn the roof; go straight up to the anchor. Last part is a bit runout.

5.9 (4 bolts to anchors): Follow the bolt line. Step right at the roof to the slightly hidden bolt and pull through the roof dihedral.

5.10a (mixed trad/sport): Follow the dihedral right of the bolts initially (cams BD 0.3-1 or medium nuts) and then clip the bolt at the roof. One loose 6-IN rock at the roof. Jan 7, 2016
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
I think this one is actually the trad/sport line the follows up the seam on the left side of the crag. There's only one bolt. I place a couple of nuts down low, and only needed one other quickdraw. Jan 1, 2015

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