Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 324 total · 4/month
Shared By: Zach Alberts on Nov 16, 2012
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Big huecos and good crimps up an overhanging face on some of the finest limestone at Céüse. This route is a little bit shorter than the others in this sector; and also one of the easiest on the overhanging portion of the sector, so it is also one of the most popular. The clipping holds for the anchor are small crimps, which is totally out of context with the rest of the route...so most climbers grab the chains...a fun route, worth doing.

Location

one of the first routes on the overhanging part of the sector. look for big huecos trending left for the first 2 bolts...

Protection

glue-in bolts to a fixed anchor

Photos

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Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
A great pitch, with a memorable extension as well. The lower half's crux is characterized by a punchy move off of a two finger pocket, and of course clipping the anchor - which is unfortunate - but if you're not pumped stupid there are a few different clipping options there. Keep climbing for a thin and delicate crux just after the low anchor, followed by some stunning, quite airy climbing up a brilliant runnel to anchors at nearly 40 meters. The extension is considered 8a+ and keeps the same name. May 17, 2014