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Routes in Lower Broadway

A Christian Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cockjob T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Colby Martin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highway To Hell T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Incredible Overhanging Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane's Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Lady Elaine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Midway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up and Coming T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wind Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eric Janoscrat and Cal Swoager - 1980s
Page Views: 401 total, 7/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Nov 16, 2012
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the face to a right-leaning crack and your first pro. Move up to the overhang and spend some time getting good gear. Now the fun begins. Pull the small overhang and move up the somewhat slabby face to the first bolt. Continue up on small, sharp, but positive crimps and edges to the 2nd bolt. Move up left (staying left seemed harder but there's a pro placement there) on very small edges and then trend back right. Once you find a hold about 2 finger-pads wide you're nearly there.

This route is very sustained once past the overhang. Big fall potential if you miss the pro placement after the 2nd bolt. That said, the moves are beautiful and the crimps/edges are very positive. 5.10a is probably conservative...it's just 5.10-hard.

Location

Broadway Ledge, above the Lower Broadway Chimney and just below the Upper Broadway Chimney. Locate a clean, white 'highway' up the face surrounded by lichen. You can setup a top-rope on it, accessing it from P2 of Old Ladies Route.

Protection

2 bolts about midway through (bolts are newer...not button-heads or 1/4 junk). First pro placement is about 15ft up. At the small overhang you can also get a couple pieces of pro. Then nothing till the bolts. There is one other pro possibility on the left after the 2nd bolt. Take tri-cams black thru red and no gear larger than 1.25 inches (BD .5).

Cold, steely determination and focus is required.

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