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Routes in Renaissance Crag

Black Death, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bring Out Your Dead T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Camelbak Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pestilence Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Renaissance Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sword In The Stone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trebuchet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wicked Duke Takes a Wife, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jens Amudsen
Page Views: 1,461 total, 24/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 15, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

I love this route. It provides stacks of beautiful hand and foot movements, good rock, and elegant positioning. The crux comes low, and the last 15 meters pack consistent and engaging 5.9 climbing. Enjoy!

Historical issues:

It should be noted that this part of the Renaissance Crag shows signs of past climbing attention. I found an extremely sketchy 1/4" thick bolt that was drilled only 1/4" in to the sandstone patina. It took about 2 or 3 turns with my fingers to remove it. I have no idea when or by whom this bolt was placed. I've asked around (Dave Griffith and Steve Edwards, for example), and no one seems to know. What's more, I've no idea what line of travel that ill-fated bolt professed to protect. In any case, I'm not the only one who thought this area worth climbing.

Also, to the left of the second bolt of this route, you can see a Metolius hanger protecting a bottomed-out seam. Again, someone has been here before me. I can only guess that this bolt protects the start of a 5.8ish crack/dihedral to the left of Sword and the Stone.

Location

On the left side of the Renaissance Man Crag area. Starts at the lower left end of the big slab.

Protection

8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
dm00
 
dm00  
 
Definitely one of the higher quality slab climbs in the area. For me, the crux came after bolt 5 (or maybe 6 ), where the bolt spacing increases and you have to pick your line. It seems it can be 5.easy (if you go left and use the arete) or at least 5.10+ if you follow the direct line to the next bolt (which feels just a bit too far) with anything in between, with only one peculiar line that keeps it in the 5.9 range May 25, 2014
Michael Weaver
  5.10
Michael Weaver  
  5.10
The rock is nice and sticky, making for good feet. The hands are little thin contributing to the 5.9+ rating. Some holds had dirt or lichen build up. Wish I had brought a brush. Nov 11, 2017
brucy  
That old 1/4" bolt in question was put in many years ago ('76) by Gary Anderson to pro the bottom before the crack. Sep 9, 2017
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9+
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9+
Great rock, but I was expecting a bit more given the raves. (80 feet?) It's got some fun, sustained 5.9 moves with good feet. Knock out all the Alchemy routes and end the afternoon on this (and the TR) and you will have had an excellent day out. Aug 9, 2015
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Sorry for going on, but this is such a great piece of rock... The bolt to the left of the start of Sword in the Stone (Metolius Hanger next to a seam) might well be on "Made in the Shade" by Anderson & Forkash (1980). The Tucker-Steele guidebook reads, "A seam runs up the ocean side of a pedestal. From the top of the pedestal, face moves lead up and right to a walk-off." Aug 21, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Awesome route! Excellent movement, and this is hands-down the best rock quality on any route I've climbed in Santa Barbara. Incredible find, Andy.

The hardest move of the route for me came right at the first bolt and is well protected (5.9+). The sequence passing the second bolt at first seemed intimidating, but subtle footwork yielded a path that was quite moderate. My favorite move was the 5.8 mantle at the 6th bolt! Fun until the very last move.

If you get on this route, be sure to also top-rope the plumb line directly below the anchor. This is stellar 5.8+ face climb on the same outstanding rock as Sword in the Stone. Aug 21, 2013
Went out here today. What a great area! This route was crimpy and fun, and the bolts are very nice. The rock is not quite vertical, but still offered a great challenge. Definitely recommend. Jul 14, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Agreed: one of the finest of its grade in SB.

There is a slightly loose section near the last bolt, but you can avoid the manky holds quite easily. If you're breaking in to the 5.9+/5.10a leading game, this is a great route to try. Nov 17, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.9+
Richard Shore  
  5.9+
I was fortunate to grab a couple early TR ascents of this route (before all the lead bolts were installed). It is a beautiful, sweeping patina face, with excellent stone. Probably the longest, most sustained route of its grade in SB. 5.9++. Quality-wise, I can only compare it to a more challenging version of Face Lift 5.7 at San Ysidro. Not as steep as Great Race 5.10a and I think it's a touch easier as well. Go do it! Nov 16, 2012