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Routes in The Oracle

Beak to the Future T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Beaking In Tongues 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Fantasia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2+ R
Type: Trad, Aid, 700 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Paul Gagner and Jeremy Aslaksen, November, 2012
Page Views: 1,534 total, 25/month
Shared By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 15, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Beak to the Future starts about 30 feet right of Beaking in Tongues.

1st pitch involves some very run-out 5.10 climbing with no pro till you can place a couple small Peckers. Continue right passing a couple bolts to belay. Rock is good.

2nd pitch passes a couple bolts to a pretty good Beak seam/small cams as I remember. Maybe some free climbing? End pitch at two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 starts with a couple bolts and moves onto the Mud Shield crack system which is a total splitter to the end of the pitch.

Pitch 4 starts in a good crack that slowly gets wider till you hit the 5.10 squeeze crux.

Pitch 5 continues off left passing a fat crack and ends about 25 feet up the last pitch of Fantasia.

Follow Fantasia to the top.

Rap the route.



Rack:

5 x #1 Peckers
20 x #2 Peckers
15 x #3 Peckers
6 x Spectres
2 x cams small to #5

Protection

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Sounds like a good call, Andrew. Dec 20, 2016
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I think pretty much everyone realizes that a rack calling for 40+ beaks is most likely not really A2+.

Looks awesome! Love your trip report. Jan 2, 2013
yeah! Sounds and looks like a very cool route, fantastic job putting that together!

The face under that side of the Oracle is the absolute best in or anywhere near the Fishers, so steep and big and featureless and cool. Dec 30, 2012