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Kitty From Hell
5.10d,
Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 9
votes
FA: Herb Laeger, Eric Rhicard. 1989
California
> Sequoia & Kings…
> Chimney Rocks
> Chimney Spire
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
Description
If you happen to be looking for an excellent, exposed and interesting crack climb at chimney rocks, look no further! Everything from fingers to OW with a funny cliffhanger finish, but beware, it's hard for 10d.
P1: Head up to the crack in the block, then climb from fingers to hands to off-width until you reach a ledge with a single bolt that can be backed up with small nuts (10c).
P2: Climb above the bolt and traverse left around the corner until you're at a finger crack. This part is super exposed, don't look down! Follow the finger crack up and eventually exit right into an alcove with large crystals (10d+).
P3: Climb up out of the crystal chimney into an OW. The OW turns into a great hand crack for a while and eventually you head right around the corner until you reach a decent belay ledge (10b)
P4: Follow the obvious crack system up and right to a corner where you follow the corner up, over a chockstone (use cliffhanger hang for bonus poins), and belay once you can see over the other side (5.9).
Location
Go down the loose gully between chimney spire and chimney rock until you see a very obvious clean crack in a block low on the spire.
Protection
Doubles to #4, and I think we had a #5 along (#5 not necessary, see comment). Set of nuts.
![This is from just past the beginning of the route. The first pitch leads into that stunning splitter in the block!]()
[Hide Photo] This is from just past the beginning of the route. The first pitch leads into that stunning splitter in the block!
![Something like that. I hope Dave Hickey will forgive me for drawing this in on his picture!]()
[Hide Photo] Something like that. I hope Dave Hickey will forgive me for drawing this in on his picture!
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Tucson
Eric Rhicard. Note spelling. Feb 14, 2013
Fort Collins, CO
Tucson
1) Start in a left facing corner and follow the crack that splits the overhanging block 10c/d. Belay on ledge.
2) Climb up 10 ft. to bulge then head left around corner and up crack 10d to the quartz dike. Belay in the right crack.c
3) Head up to the wide crack which can be avoided by climbing around it at 10c. It becomes a fist then a fantastic hand crack. Follow this until you can step right on ledges and belay at bottom of lower angle cracks that head up and right.
4)The fourth pitch follows the cracks a long way to the top. Breaking this pitch up might reduce rope drag.
A note on the 3rd pitch: the rock is a little funky and pro a bit sparse getting around the offwidth. It is however a pretty exciting climb and well worth doing for the experienced climber. Oct 14, 2015
Middle of CA