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Ace in the Hole

5.9+, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 148 votes
FA: unknown
Arkansas > North-Central A… > Horseshoe Canyo… > N Side > N Forty Routes

Description

This new route starts on Green Goblin and then veers right. Traverse on big ledges right, to the brief crux section, leaning off a wonderful sidepull rail and stepping up to more jugs. The rest is simple but still fun.

The consensus rating seems to be 5.10a right now, but it felt easier to me than its nearby neighbor First Normal Form 5.9+.

Location

Start on Green Goblin 5.8, but follow the right bolt line.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ryan Wittich climbing Ace in the Hole
[Hide Photo] Ryan Wittich climbing Ace in the Hole
Ace in the Hole (aka the original Green Goblin)
[Hide Photo] Ace in the Hole (aka the original Green Goblin)
post crux jug bash out
[Hide Photo] post crux jug bash out
reaching out for the second clip into the traverse where things get interesting
[Hide Photo] reaching out for the second clip into the traverse where things get interesting
Jon traverses right after the 1st bolt to get onto Ace in the Hole
[Hide Photo] Jon traverses right after the 1st bolt to get onto Ace in the Hole
Ace in the hole breaks right after first bolt of Green Goblin
[Hide Photo] Ace in the hole breaks right after first bolt of Green Goblin

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Genericclimberguy
 
[Hide Comment] You can climb this line direct instead of starting Green Goblin and then traversing. Starts with very high crimp, high feet onto another deadpoint crimp. It finally eases once you reach the horizontal hand jam. I guess the route starts at 11+. Whoever bolts out there...this line is asking for a bolt below the horizontal. A stick clip will protect the cruxy start and boom, you have another 11+ route that is consistent with Circus Wall. Mar 9, 2015
Pat0
[Hide Comment] The direct start is super fun and probably better than the traverse. I agree with Genericclimberguy that it could use a first bolt. Goes at 11a/b trending towards b due to the gatekeeper boulder problem. Oct 19, 2019
Grant Hollis
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This route is way higher quality than Green Goblin. The holds are far less polished and it holds some really awesome movement! Aug 15, 2021