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Routes in Woodson View Slabs

Dirty Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dragonfly T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
almost toprope TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Kelly Kropko / Mark Schlocker 11/2012
Page Views: 715 total · 11/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Nov 12, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The Ramona Wall and Miller Time Walls have seasonal closure Dec 15 through August 31 Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A thin and flared seam leads up low angle climbing. The start requires traversing in past the namesake bush on a slab to the seam. Follow the seam up. Eventually the seam thins and arches left, follow this until it touches off on a hand crack. Pro the hand crack and traverse right to the last lead bolt of Dragonfly. Clip this and continue to the Dragonfly anchor.

Location

Left of Dragonfly about 20 feet. Traverse in from the right, past a "dirty" bush blocking the base of the route.

Protection

Not protected for the first 15 feet, which may be the crux. The seam takes small nuts surprisingly well. Thumb sized cams are useful, gear up to #1 Camalot. Slings for the traverse. Probably not a route to be breaking into the grade on.

Photos

Winterparkmg
El Cajon, CA
 
Winterparkmg   El Cajon, CA
 
This was actually a really fun route! I thought it would be a pain because slabs and flared seams was too similar to Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park... I agree with the grade, but only for one move that I recall. Great fun, and plenty of gear. I was demonstrating placements on this route and managed to put in 11 I think! only one 10' runout, then the traverse to the anchor.

With more traffic and lichen being beaten into submission, this would be a super classic 5.7 slab I bet! Sep 19, 2017
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
The route seemed improbable to protect until closer inspection. The thin seams just had to be cleaned of dirt to reveal bomber nut placements. When Kelly asked me, what's that go at? I told her it doesn't protect so nobody ever did it. She clearly proved me wrong. Nov 13, 2012