Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Nathan Marsh, D Allred, J. Kitchen
Page Views: 855 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nathan Marsh on Nov 12, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Starts out on crimpy shotgun style climbing in the high 5.10 - low 5.11 range. then hits a roof with a strong dyno move and some balance technique to get that 4th clip. Crux is pulling the roof or clipping the 4th. The route(4th bolt placement) is designed to take you left on the face and away from the arete, climbing it this way puts it in the 11+/12- range. There is an alternative staying on the arete with good holds around the right side of the arete. Much easier(11 b/c) but still fun. great route anyway you try it.

Location

Just to the right of Too many puppies and Kalamazo0

Protection

4 bolts to two bolts up top for anchors. Bring some slings for the anchor over the edge

Photos

I really enjoyed this route! Acrobatic move from the undercling to the boulder on top is pretty ballsy. Although once you leap for it, you'll find the holds are bomber. To that point it's super crimpy/balancy. Highly recommend this route if you're in Shotgun. Nov 13, 2012
lech
  5.11b
lech  
  5.11b
5.9 up to the overhang. No need for jumping. It's not any harder to keep your feet on. I almost didn't do this route because of the dino beta in the description and previous commitment. I am short and dislike jumping. Luckily like almost all outdoor routes jumping is optional, with reasonable technique. 4 days ago