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Routes in Murphy's Dome South Face

Beer is Better T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Streak Through Overlap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bottom Feeder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hey, Dude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Irish Red S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King and Eye, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Murphy's Law S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Murphy's Stout S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pork Meadows S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slim Chance S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stitch of Time T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Water Witch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Where's My Car? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Webster & Ellis
Page Views: 205 total · 3/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Nov 10, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This isn't my route, but let's include it in the database. The rock on the entire dome is friable, the same as 11 years ago, but this is still a good pitch worth doing when here. It is not exactly a sport climb, just sort of a typical 'Platte spacing on 3/8" bolts.

EDIT: as of 4-5-16, there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this line where you expect one and 4 bolts have been added! (one down at the bottom and 3 on the upper section. Now I guess it is a sport climb.)

[In it's original form, I always took a hard right at the last bolt (which is orphaned by the new bolts) and went 20 odd feet to meet up with the obvious cold-shut anchor bolts. (Otherwise, you'd have to contend with the minefield of rocks waiting to kill your belayer.) Yes, it was more run-out but safer since the climbing was reasonable.]

Location

This is just about in the middle of the face, left of the arete climb, Bottom Feeder.

Protection

EDIT: 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a/b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a/b
I actually think this is one of the better routes at the crag. I gave it two stars. It is too bad they did not install an anchor when it was established. I think the rock is less friable on this one than on others nearby. In other places there would probably be two more bolts on the line. Be careful getting to the first bolt. I put a cordallete around a big block up top and backed it up with a #3 Camalot a bit higher. Sep 13, 2015
drewhouser
  5.10a/b
drewhouser  
  5.10a/b
We kayaked to The Confluence, drove to the pull-out upstream, threw on our harnesses, and went for a hike up a hill. That's how I found myself here...why I found myself here? I have no idea. Unless you have climbed most of the other crags in the area and are looking to "check them all off," there are better places to go. Dec 29, 2014

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