Trad, 1700 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 4 from 3
FA: Scotty Nelson / Shaun Reed / Brad Wilson
> Sequoia & Kings…
> Tehipite Dome
Always check road conditions and peregrine closures
The route climbs the southeast buttress of Tehipite Dome. The lower half of the route features stellar crack climbing, while the upper half features mixed crack and face climbing. The route was established in honor of our friends Gil Weiss and Ben Horne, who died in July 2012 after establishing a new route on Paclaraju Oeste, Peru. !Vamos El Cumbre!
P1: fingers and hands (40m, 5.10)
P2: "Gil Weiss Memorial Offwidth". Hands to squeeze to stacks, ends on a stance (62m, 5.10+)
P3: Step right and climb the left facing corner to a stance belay(30m, 5.10+)
P4: Continue up the corner. Where it gets thin, step left to a horizontal and then back right. (30m, 5.11)
P5: Lower angle hands leads to the "Ledge of Repair" (60m, 5.8).
P6: Follow cracks up the prow, then traverse left past 2 bolts (50m, 5.11) and then continue up to the belay right of a large block
P7: Tunnel behind the block, clip a bolt, then face climb until a face crux (bolt) near the anchor (50m, 5.10+)
P8: Honey Badger Traverse. Climb flakes to a 3 bolt leftwards rising traverse , then move left and up to the belay (50m, 5.10+).
P9: Continue up the right facing corner and over a small roof (40m, 5.7)
P10: Face climb past 2 bolts to a belay (30m, 5.8)
P11: Climb the arch and exit at it's apex (50m, 5.9) then up a slab to the top.
Start by approaching Tehipite Dome (~14 miles). We found a nice campsite right next to the backside of the dome, with water about 10 minutes away.
From the summit of the dome, scramble a short ways south down a gully and then walk across a short ramp to rap anchors. 11 double rope rappels take you to the base of the route.
Standard rack, extra wide (#4-#5) for the Gil Weiss Memorial Offwidth pitch if desired.
Shaun on pitch 4.
Pitch 2, "Gil Weiss Memorial Offwidth"
End of the offwidth pitch. Only the top 1/3 can be seen... the easy part
Scotty taking off on the off-width pitch!
Overview of route.
crux moves on the 4th pitch are freakin sweet
last pitch is straight hero climbing. awesome way to end it.
Astro-Gil photo page 2
Astro-Gil topo page 1
Scotty on the "Ledge of Repair"
Brad Wilson on pitch 7, "Honey Badger Traverse".