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Routes in Tehipite Dome
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Astro-Gil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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In the Niche of Time T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ |
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One For The Homies T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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One for the Ladies T |
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Tehipite Dome - North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Tehipite Dome - Southwest Face (Kroger) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Tehipite Sanction, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Time Warp (Beckey) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Too Hip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wall of Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Wilderness Serenity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1700 ft (515 m), 11 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Scotty Nelson / Shaun Reed / Brad Wilson |
| Page Views: | 10,614 total · 72/month |
| Shared By: | Scotty Nelson on Nov 8, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
The route climbs the southeast buttress of Tehipite Dome. The lower half of the route features stellar crack climbing, while the upper half features mixed crack and face climbing. The route was established in honor of our friends Gil Weiss and Ben Horne, who died in July 2012 after establishing a new route on Paclaraju Oeste, Peru. !Vamos El Cumbre!
P1: fingers and hands (40m, 5.10)
P2: "Gil Weiss Memorial Offwidth". Hands to squeeze to stacks, ends on a stance (62m, 5.10+)
P3: Step right and climb the left facing corner to a stance belay(30m, 5.10+)
P4: Continue up the corner. Where it gets thin, step left to a horizontal and then back right. (30m, 5.11)
P5: Lower angle hands leads to the "Ledge of Repair" (60m, 5.8).
P6: Follow cracks up the prow, then traverse left past 2 bolts (50m, 5.11) and then continue up to the belay right of a large block
P7: Tunnel behind the block, clip a bolt, then face climb until a face crux (bolt) near the anchor (50m, 5.10+)
P8: Honey Badger Traverse. Climb flakes to a 3 bolt leftwards rising traverse , then move left and up to the belay (50m, 5.10+).
P9: Continue up the right facing corner and over a small roof (40m, 5.7)
P10: Face climb past 2 bolts to a belay (30m, 5.8)
P11: Climb the arch and exit at it's apex (50m, 5.9) then up a slab to the top.
P1: fingers and hands (40m, 5.10)
P2: "Gil Weiss Memorial Offwidth". Hands to squeeze to stacks, ends on a stance (62m, 5.10+)
P3: Step right and climb the left facing corner to a stance belay(30m, 5.10+)
P4: Continue up the corner. Where it gets thin, step left to a horizontal and then back right. (30m, 5.11)
P5: Lower angle hands leads to the "Ledge of Repair" (60m, 5.8).
P6: Follow cracks up the prow, then traverse left past 2 bolts (50m, 5.11) and then continue up to the belay right of a large block
P7: Tunnel behind the block, clip a bolt, then face climb until a face crux (bolt) near the anchor (50m, 5.10+)
P8: Honey Badger Traverse. Climb flakes to a 3 bolt leftwards rising traverse , then move left and up to the belay (50m, 5.10+).
P9: Continue up the right facing corner and over a small roof (40m, 5.7)
P10: Face climb past 2 bolts to a belay (30m, 5.8)
P11: Climb the arch and exit at it's apex (50m, 5.9) then up a slab to the top.
Location
Start by approaching Tehipite Dome (~14 miles). We found a nice campsite right next to the backside of the dome, with water about 10 minutes away.
From the summit of the dome, scramble a short ways south down a gully and then walk across a short ramp to rap anchors. 11 double rope rappels take you to the base of the route.
From the summit of the dome, scramble a short ways south down a gully and then walk across a short ramp to rap anchors. 11 double rope rappels take you to the base of the route.
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