Type: , 60 ft
FA: David Enloe
Page Views: 527 total · 6/month
Shared By: David Enloe on Nov 6, 2012
Admins: Mike Madsen

You & This Route


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Description

Update 7/18: Route has been climbed by multiple people. Our consensus so far is 5.10c. I'll work on getting that updated.

The obvious line up an inspiring piece of rock. Diagonal hand crack for first two-thirds of climb, then things get interesting as it widens before easier terrain leads to the top. Rock quality is great down low, less great on the easy terrain up high. Expect a highly physical experience for the grade, with the the most useful beta being "just keep going and don't slow down to think."

Alternate starts exist. Taking the crack out of the water is certainly an option, but it's been a while since I've done it that way. Probably adds 1/2 a grade to the route. Our standard start begins about 20' right of the crack with the obvious ledge making it easy to get out of the water. A moderate (albeit strenuous) traverse left brings you into the crack about 5' above the water. 

Location

St. Thomas, West end of Santa Maria bay, facing east. Boat access only with a tough (involves swimming and climbing with boat anchor) anchorage. Needs extremely calm conditions. 

Protection

Deep water solo!!! This route is just tall enough to get seriously injured if you fall uncontrolled from the top. 

Photos

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