5.13a,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
FA: Doug Reed (1993)
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Fern Buttress
> 2) Monolith Wall
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This route is characterized by extremely steep roof climbing with some stimulating cruxes thrown in. The majority of the holds are jugs and slopers.
Stick Clip the high first bolt and then tread lightly through the first 20 feet of vertical sandy stone. Follow a slopey rail out the roof past the third bolt and punch through the crimpy technical crux. Traverse on jugs left ten feet to a resting hold before the redpoint crux. Pop out right to a slopey hole and then jump to a good horizontal. Juggy climbing and one more technical move clearing the final roof delivers you to the top of the cliff.
The climbing on this route is very similar to the routes found at the hole (Kaymoor).
Location
The middle line up the giant cave.
Protection
7 Bolts + Anchor Bring a draw for bolt 1 and a long draw for bolt 2. The rest is equipped with chain draws.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
