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Gorilla Warfare

5.12b, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 15 votes
FA: Jack Marshall, 1994
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Malibu Creek SP > Planet of the Apes Wall
Warning Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal nesting swallow closure NOW LIFTED - All routes open DetailsDrop down

Description

15 feet to the right of Planet of the Apes you will find Gorilla Warfare. This route has some simple moves down low to a big jug about 10 feet up. From here continue on the small pockets to the sequential throw to the slopey pockets and then high step (crux) and move off the small crimps to the big flake. Continue up the big flake to a final roof sequence at the top. Brilliant!

Protection

Anchors on top. Bring long runners to have powerpoint hang over the edge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the crux of Gorilla Warfare
[Hide Photo] On the crux of Gorilla Warfare
Going for the finish on Gorilla Warfare
[Hide Photo] Going for the finish on Gorilla Warfare

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Best Climb here hands down Jan 26, 2019
Guy Catz
Troy, NY
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Best climb at the Apes Wall for sure.
youtu.be/8HxyMqL_L3c?si=h6-… Aug 31, 2022