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Routes in Planet of the Apes Wall

Apes of Wrath TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Birthday Boy TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Christmas Pump TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Finger Prints TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla of My Dreams TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grape Ape TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guerilla Warfare TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Monkey Business TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Planet of the Apes TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shock the Monkey TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simian Survival TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spank the Monkey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spider Monkey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking on the Moon TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, 1994
Page Views: 1,930 total · 27/month
Shared By: RussellG on Nov 5, 2012
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

15 feet to the right of Planet of the Apes you will find Gorilla Warfare. This route has some simple moves down low to a big jug about 10 feet up. From here continue on the small pockets to the sequential throw to the slopey pockets and then high step (crux) and move off the small crimps to the big flake. Continue up the big flake to a final roof sequence at the top. Brilliant!

Protection

Anchors on top. Bring long runners to have powerpoint hang over the edge.

Photos

ClimberGuy88
  5.12c
ClimberGuy88  
  5.12c
By far the best route on the apes wall that involves crimps, pockets, flakes, slopers, and an overhanging crux roof for the finish. Starts on the pebble pinch with the right hand and up to bigger pinch with the left, flowing up through the nice jug sequence right into the small pockets to a committing throw out left for the juicy pocket. Now the real battle begins- up and over the flake and into the crux roof sequence. A hold broke off some years back making Guerilla Warfare 12c/7b+. 11 hours ago · Temporary Report

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