Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 197 total · 3/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Nov 5, 2012
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Powerful, crimpy, shit for feet... sound like fun? Then give this one a try. Sit start the short overhanging face left of the tree and figure out how to get up to the good edge from the available crimps, sidepull, and heinous feet. It will lead you to jugs before a less than straightforward topout.

Location

On the right side of the Conditions boulder (if facing WHF?) just left of a tree. Downclimb any of the low angle parts of the boulder.

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Keith on the start
Keith on the start
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8 Comments

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Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
Bryce-

Do you have any beta for this problem? Such as what holds you started on and general movement? This climb is a bit of a mystery!

Thanks! Sep 4, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V7-8
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V7-8
I tried for a while to start with the undercling and a right gaston with the intent of bumping right hand up and repeatedly got shut down. I then decided to match the thin crack with a low right foot and a high left foot and dyno to the good crimp up left. Much easier after that. I could only get a few tries in per session before my finger tips ripped off. Whether that was right or not, I don't know, but it felt hard for the grade. Sep 6, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
Agreed. This problem just seems vicious for a few moves, unless there is something we're both missing. Now that I have some feedback on the start, I'll give it some goes and let you know what I think. Thanks!

I'm sure I'll be asking plenty more questions about problems, so be ready! Sep 7, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Where does this problem start? Looked at it today and couldnt figure it out. Oct 30, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
I started as per Bryce's description in the comments above and that seemed around v7 to me. Starting this way made the problem sort of fun. Starting with the undercling and right hand crimp is very hard, awkward and not fun at all. Oct 30, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
So just so I have it correct you start both hands matched on the chalked flake about a foot left of the tree? Oct 31, 2014
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
Do you start this thing squatting at the crimp rail that is just left of the tree or do you start it actually sitting with your right on the gaston/crimp and your left on the sidepull with no feet? I did it from a squat yesterday and that felt pretty hard still. I don't know if I would say it's a V7 but it definitely wasn't easy that's for sure. Nov 16, 2014
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8-
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8-
The start holds aren't quite as good as you want them to be and the foot is just bad enough that its annoying. The first move is really committing but I kinda like that in a problem. Felt on par with Of Mice and Men for difficulty for me. Hard to put a grade on these one movers. I'd like to see what other people think for a grade. This is where I started the problem. youtube.com/watch?v=OhQFlb6… Nov 28, 2016