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Ecstasy of the People
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Lower Security Risk
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Agony and Ecstasy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Central Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Comfortably Numb T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Ecstasy of the People S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eldo of the People S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Enema of the People S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Enemy of the People T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Give Me a Squeeze T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lemonade Start - Security Risk T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Maximum Security T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Men Are From Mars T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Middle Start T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Prism T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Start, Security Risk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scraping By T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Security Risk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Social Security T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mark Rolofson |
| Page Views: | 1,184 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Nov 5, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Security Risk reopened 3/14/25
Details
Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
On 3/14/25: Security Risk was reopened.
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to 7/31/23. More info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22: Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock stayed closed to climbing & other activities thru 7/31/22.
On 3/14/25: Security Risk was reopened.
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to 7/31/23. More info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22: Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock stayed closed to climbing & other activities thru 7/31/22.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Details
On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This beautiful arete hangs proudly over the trail to Upper Security Risk, yet few people bother to look at it, and even fewer try it. However, those willing to step off the beaten path will be rewarded with great rock, unique movement, and a formidable mental challenge.
Start up a dirty corner to the left of the first bolt (stick clip recommended). Once level with the first bolt, traverse right into the first crux along sidepulls with high, awkward feet past three bolts to decent holds at the base of the arete. Using the seam on the right side of the arete and small features on the left, hug your way past a difficult arete crux to a semi-restful stance below the last crux. With smeary feet, squeeze between the arete and a disappointingly slopey feature to delicately gain the slab. The final 25 feet of the route is 5.8 and can be protected with finger-sized cams.
In general, expect technical, off-balance climbing with slightly difficult clips. The route missed four star status, because it's a bit dirty and the rock isn't perfect at the first bolt. Despite its shortcomings, this is one of the best arete climbs in the canyon.
Also, beware of a very large, loose block just below the anchors.
Start up a dirty corner to the left of the first bolt (stick clip recommended). Once level with the first bolt, traverse right into the first crux along sidepulls with high, awkward feet past three bolts to decent holds at the base of the arete. Using the seam on the right side of the arete and small features on the left, hug your way past a difficult arete crux to a semi-restful stance below the last crux. With smeary feet, squeeze between the arete and a disappointingly slopey feature to delicately gain the slab. The final 25 feet of the route is 5.8 and can be protected with finger-sized cams.
In general, expect technical, off-balance climbing with slightly difficult clips. The route missed four star status, because it's a bit dirty and the rock isn't perfect at the first bolt. Despite its shortcomings, this is one of the best arete climbs in the canyon.
Also, beware of a very large, loose block just below the anchors.
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