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Caveman Television

5.10a, Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 1 from 4 votes
FA: Kelly Farris, Ben Philbrick
California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Summit Blocks - E (Main)

Description

pro: three bolts plus pro med nuts/ .5-2" cams. fifteen feet to the right of sunnyside, move up the ramp and over to clip the first bolt. then climb up! finish at the sunnyside anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

kelly pulling the move
[Hide Photo] kelly pulling the move
making the first clip
[Hide Photo] making the first clip

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Aaron Formella
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] Dirty as hell and no mercy with the bolts. If you're on clean rock you're off route. The moves getting onto the face from around the right-facing corner and standing up were fun and surprisingly challenging and tricky. An excellent job was done trimming back the poison oak, it can currently be completely avoided, but it's very close by and a few sprigs are working their way back in to catch the unaware. This was likely the mungiest route I've ever climbed (maybe Spring is a bad time?). Felt like kind of a serious route given the munginess from moss, lichen, and dirt causing poor friction, inability to see potential good holds, extra work cleaning, inability to tell if holds are reliable, difficult gear placements, etc. It gets significantly mungier beyond bolt 2, after which the grade becomes nebulous. My strategy was to stay off anything that protruded at all, opting for the sloping holds, dishes, and edges that appeared to be congruent with the matrix of the wall (not wanting to risk breaking a hold as a fall would be rather large given the generous bolt spacing); it was definitely slow-going. Leading with a brush and a nut tool for digging is advisable. Did a lot of brushing with my hands, blowing (make sure to keep your eyes open LOL), digging for gear, cleaning my shoes on my pant legs, just gardening in general. Could be a good route if it cleans up, but unlikely given it's location and aspect. Worth climbing once up to bolt 2 and lowering off perhaps. All respect to the FA party however for their effort and contribution; we don't design and build the routes, merely discover, equip, and climb them. Apr 5, 2021