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ZZZZZ Direct Start
5.9 PG13,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 13
votes
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, and Sara Matisse, Oct. 2012
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Echo Rock Area
> Little Hunk
> Little Hunk - N…
> Little Hunk - NE Face…
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art.
Details
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
Description
This is a 2-bolt direct start to ZZZZZ. Begin about 30 feet right of the normal start and climb up to and onto a dike (5.9), then tiptoe left to join ZZZZZ.
This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).
Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to set up a gear anchor and scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.
Protection
4 bolts, .75 inch CD,
gear anchor small to med.
[Hide Photo] ZZZZZ Direct Start Take a .75 inch CD (#.5 Camalot) for the crack above the 4th bolt.
[Hide Photo] Lori Milas on ZZZZ Direct Start
Joshua Tree, CA