Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

ZZZZZ Direct Start

5.9 PG13, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 13 votes
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, and Sara Matisse, Oct. 2012
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Little Hunk > Little Hunk - N… > Little Hunk - NE Face…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a 2-bolt direct start to ZZZZZ. Begin about 30 feet right of the normal start and climb up to and onto a dike (5.9), then tiptoe left to join ZZZZZ.

This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).

Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to set up a gear anchor and scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.

Protection

4 bolts, .75 inch CD,
gear anchor small to med.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

ZZZZZ Direct Start
<br>
Take a .75 inch CD (#.5 Camalot) for the crack above the 4th bolt.
[Hide Photo] ZZZZZ Direct Start Take a .75 inch CD (#.5 Camalot) for the crack above the 4th bolt.
Lori Milas on ZZZZ Direct Start
[Hide Photo] Lori Milas on ZZZZ Direct Start
Sara Matisse on the FA
[Hide Photo] Sara Matisse on the FA
original start on left; direct start on right
[Hide Photo] original start on left; direct start on right

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MikeP ROWCC
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Didn't know that this wasn't the right start for ZZZZZ. Nice moves on nice rock and still get the crux of ZZZZZ. The face after the first natural pro was a little spicy. The crux was well protected at the third bolt. Feb 19, 2013
[Hide Comment] Great route. It could use a new third and fourth bolt although you can sorta see what your getting yourself into when looking up at the plaque (nov88) attached to the third bolt. The fourth bolt is in even worse shape - rusted with a loose hanger. If these bolts were Replaced the route would not feel much scarier than your average j-tree face climb. Jan 14, 2017
Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Bolts 3 and 4 (the 2 bolts on the original ZZZZZ route) have been replaced with 1/2-inch stainless steel bolts, (Dec. 2023) hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association. If you'd like to donate to the ASCA, check them out at safeclimbing.org. Dec 30, 2023