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Welton's Corner

5.9, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Loran Smith Spring, 1986
New Hampshire > Cathedral Ledge > Beast Alcove & Refuse…

Description

This is the route starting just right of AP Treat, next to the stone steps accessing the Prow Area. Begin on a shallow arête leading to cracks and flakes which bring you to a stance under the final shallow corner. Climb the corner past a bolt (not present on the FA) to the top and a shared tree belay with AP Treat.

Location

Below the start of the Prow on a 50 foot high slab. Welton's Corner climbs a shallow inside corner via cracks and flakes about 20' right of AP Treat.

Protection

Small to mid sized stoppers and cams and one bolt. The bolt was added 21 years after the FA, which used a tied off long dong piton in the crack below the present day bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Joshua finishing the route, the Prow is visible above.
[Hide Photo] Joshua finishing the route, the Prow is visible above.
Starting the crux sequence.
[Hide Photo] Starting the crux sequence.
Joshua takes a run on TR. Welton's Corner climbs the shallow arete below his feet leading to these horizontal cracks, then flakes and cracks leading to a stance below the upper corner crux.
[Hide Photo] Joshua takes a run on TR. Welton's Corner climbs the shallow arete below his feet leading to these horizontal cracks, then flakes and cracks leading to a stance below the upper corner crux.
Joshua contemplating the crux moves.
[Hide Photo] Joshua contemplating the crux moves.
Joshua Corbett on TR, just about to start the crux moves of Welton's Corner.
[Hide Photo] Joshua Corbett on TR, just about to start the crux moves of Welton's Corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Edge
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This route is written up in the 2012 Handren guide as "By the Way" 5.10a with a FA attributed to George Hurley and Mike Kahn, July 4, 2007.

The actual FA was done by Loran Smith in Spring of 1986 after a brief cleaning on rappel, and was repeated later that same week by Mack Johnson and Loran Smith who both graded it 5.9. The present day bolt was presumably placed in 2007, but originally the upper corner was protected by a long dong piton which I carried as a cleaning tool which was pounded in 1/3 length and tied off.

Named after Welton Pearson, potato & dairy farmer, Celtics fan, and my grandfather, who died the week before. Nov 3, 2012
jim.dangle

[Hide Comment] I reckon this is more difficult (harder 5.10ish) if go straight up the slab rather than heading left onto the arete near the top. Basically follow the direction of rope in the pictures.

It's a decent variation.

Jim Jul 17, 2013