Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Natilik

Natilik T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,034 total, 17/month
Shared By: Zach Alberts on Nov 3, 2012
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This old school trad line is undoubtably the most classic of all multi-pitch routes at Ceuse. Five unique and memorable pitches finish at the top of the beautiful plateau of the Ceuse massif with amazing views of Gap and the hautes-alpes region. Don't forget to bring your camera.

P1- (10c, 70ft) Climb the obvious hand and finger crack passing a small block/roof at about 40ft, continue up to belay at a small alcove with some fixed gear.

P2- (10d, 100ft) Climb the classic hand, big hand and fist crack and belay at the top.

P3- (5.9+, 90ft) Climb the to the gigantic roof, then traverse left to a fixed anchor and belay.

P4- (5.9, 70ft) The 'ramping pitch'. Make an unforgettable traverse right, clipping fixed pins along the way and belay at its end.

P5- (5.10b, 100ft) Face climb to the top using the water groove system clipping a few old, rusty bolts. There is one good belay bolt at the top.

Descent: The first option is to rappel the route using two 60m ropes. The more simple method is to rap the via ferrata using one rope, a 60m might make it, but a 70m is safer. This requires walking down along the plateau for five minutes to reach the via ferrata.

Location

Look for the obvious crack system just past a metal fence at sector Natilik.

Protection

This is a trad climb. Standard trad rack, heavy on the big hand and fist sized pieces. All anchors are fixed.

Photos

0 Comments