Pumping Pockets
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 7 votes
Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Bob D'Antonio |
Page Views: | 985 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | William Mondragon on Nov 1, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
Details
Per A Lee: *ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
Description
This climb is left of Fine Young Canibals. It starts off a fat ledge with a high first bolt. This route has good rock and interesting moves, BUT there [was] no anchor, and topping it out [was] no fun. I post this route as a warning, that bailer is on 3rd bolt for a reason.
Per Wes O'Rourke: this route is now well protected with a lower first bolt. It climbs the clean wall on perfect pockets all the way! This thing is on you the whole time, so stay focused and crank the continuous moves all the way to the new ASCA anchor.
Per Wes O'Rourke: this route is now well protected with a lower first bolt. It climbs the clean wall on perfect pockets all the way! This thing is on you the whole time, so stay focused and crank the continuous moves all the way to the new ASCA anchor.
Location
It is 40 feet left of that trash pile Fine Young Canibals.
Per Wes O'Rourke: it ascends the pockets through the otherwise blank patina panel.
Per Wes O'Rourke: it ascends the pockets through the otherwise blank patina panel.
Protection
4 bolts and [previously] a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. These were up to ASCA standards as of 4-21-19.
Per A Lee: the new first bolt was added to protect first PG-13 move. Originally this climb had no anchors. New anchors with rap rings were added in 2014(?) as part of the Penitente rebolting project.The 2-bolt Mussy hooks were equipped by SLV Climbers Alliance on 5/9/2020. All of the hardware was donated by the ASCA.
Per A Lee: the new first bolt was added to protect first PG-13 move. Originally this climb had no anchors. New anchors with rap rings were added in 2014(?) as part of the Penitente rebolting project.The 2-bolt Mussy hooks were equipped by SLV Climbers Alliance on 5/9/2020. All of the hardware was donated by the ASCA.
Photos
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