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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Kory Kowallis, Collin Wogenstahl
Page Views: 1,786 total, 29/month
Shared By: Kory Kowallis on Oct 31, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start by climbing a finger crack to the right of a fun looking slab. After about 15 feet pull onto the slab and continue up the crack. A slight mantle leads you to either a slopey ledge to the right or a small flat edge to the left of the crack. From there, the crack widens and the rock turns sandy. Pull into the off-width and get a knee in. Take a breath, for it's about to get "fun". Pull into the last crack system, grab some edges on the face and climb to the sub par pockets and dirty crack. 5 more feet of easy climbing to the top. Anchors are a power draw a quickdraw.

Be very careful pulling your rope. The crack system likes to suck it in.

I didn't have a brush to clean the top on the tower. The bottom is great and didn't need any cleaning at all, except for a little blowing off holds.

Placements are scary up high because of the quality of the rock, but as long as you have the gear...


Location

This tower is right next to Haagenschlong. You can either approach it form the approach pitch of Haagenschlong and walk past the chimney pitch and turn left up another slot. This is the tower and the route starts right after you come out of the slot.

Or you can scramble up the south side of the cliff. To scramble, park at the start of the Pine Canyon road and walk north toward Haagenschlong taking a less steep approach, climb some loose rock to a platform. From there you will see the tower west of you (toward the Buckhorn Wash road)

Protection

Standard desert rack with extras of .25 - .75. The first ascent was done with only a standard rack but those extras would have been very nice.

Photos

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
A fun start on podded fingers leads to a sandy and softer finish. Overall a fun tower that you should definitely do if you do Hagenschlong as it's right there. Oct 9, 2017
Devyn Marie
Boulder, Colorado
Devyn Marie   Boulder, Colorado
Does anyone know the name of the route on the backside of Flapjack Tower? It is bolted and starts in the alley around the corner from Haagenschlong, between the main wall and Flapjack Tower. May 16, 2016
Cole Bradburn
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cole Bradburn   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I fixed the anchor yesterday. Put in two new 1/2" by 6" bolts connected with two long Frost draws in rock that seems a bit more solid than the rock the old anchor was in. Now the anchor is set up to rappel back into the corridor. But I left one of the bolts from the old anchor so it can used as a directional if you set up a top down belay. Feb 29, 2016
Paul S
Fruita, CO
 
Paul S   Fruita, CO
 
I never noticed that there was a tower right here. It blends in so well with the wall behind it. Nice find!

We extended the anchor over the cap rock, so the rope pulls fine now as long as you don't get the rope in the big decaying fin you pass on the way up, which is easy to avoid (on the way down, on the way up is a different story). We were a little nervous with the anchor though, the bolts are in a section of rock that is undercut and there is a crack separating it from the rest of the cap rock. Probably fine for now, but something to keep an eye on. Apr 1, 2013