Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash
|Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2|
|Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1|
|I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1|
|Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R|
|Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+|
|Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 65 ft|
|FA:||Kory Kowallis, Collin Wogenstahl|
|Page Views:||1,786 total, 29/month|
|Shared By:||Kory Kowallis on Oct 31, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionStart by climbing a finger crack to the right of a fun looking slab. After about 15 feet pull onto the slab and continue up the crack. A slight mantle leads you to either a slopey ledge to the right or a small flat edge to the left of the crack. From there, the crack widens and the rock turns sandy. Pull into the off-width and get a knee in. Take a breath, for it's about to get "fun". Pull into the last crack system, grab some edges on the face and climb to the sub par pockets and dirty crack. 5 more feet of easy climbing to the top. Anchors are a power draw a quickdraw.
Be very careful pulling your rope. The crack system likes to suck it in.
I didn't have a brush to clean the top on the tower. The bottom is great and didn't need any cleaning at all, except for a little blowing off holds.
Placements are scary up high because of the quality of the rock, but as long as you have the gear...
LocationThis tower is right next to Haagenschlong. You can either approach it form the approach pitch of Haagenschlong and walk past the chimney pitch and turn left up another slot. This is the tower and the route starts right after you come out of the slot.
Or you can scramble up the south side of the cliff. To scramble, park at the start of the Pine Canyon road and walk north toward Haagenschlong taking a less steep approach, climb some loose rock to a platform. From there you will see the tower west of you (toward the Buckhorn Wash road)