All Locations > International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > South West > Torbay > Berry head
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Berry head
|Dreadnought T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA. Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 4.4.1969|
|Page Views:||45 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Crimper E6 on Oct 30, 2012|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell|
bird ban Details
The Old Redoubt at Berry Head has a restriction due to nesting birds that runs from the March 1st to July 31st inclusive.
Description1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of I its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an oíd peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climbit to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, leftwards to a good ledge. The short wall on the right gains a cave and a huge thread belay.
3) 5b, 23m. Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground . to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top.
LocationFrom the gearing-up ledges, drop down to the right (facing out) and downclimb a steep wall (Mod) on huge hidden holds to large sea-level ledges at the mouth of the Great Cave. To approach the majority of routes a sea- level traverse of Severe standard is necessary. This ¡s only possible for around 1 hour either side of low water. From the large sea-level ledges scramble to the back of the cave and then cross to the opposite wall and follow overhung ledges on massive holds out to the starts of the various routes. At high tide, an abseil to the start of Moonraker is possible. Tides - The starts of the routes are all tidal and calm conditions are required for the approach traverse.
Conditions - The routes require calm sea-conditions and low tides. The routes are often in condition, although they can be guano covered in places.