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Routes in Berry head

Dreadnought T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA. Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 4.4.1969
Page Views: 45 total, 1/month
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Oct 30, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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bird ban Details

Description

1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of I its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an oíd peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climbit to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, leftwards to a good ledge. The short wall on the right gains a cave and a huge thread belay.
3) 5b, 23m. Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground . to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top.

Location

From the gearing-up ledges, drop down to the right (facing out) and downclimb a steep wall (Mod) on huge hidden holds to large sea-level ledges at the mouth of the Great Cave. To approach the majority of routes a sea- level traverse of Severe standard is necessary. This ¡s only possible for around 1 hour either side of low water. From the large sea-level ledges scramble to the back of the cave and then cross to the opposite wall and follow overhung ledges on massive holds out to the starts of the various routes. At high tide, an abseil to the start of Moonraker is possible. Tides - The starts of the routes are all tidal and calm conditions are required for the approach traverse.
Conditions - The routes require calm sea-conditions and low tides. The routes are often in condition, although they can be guano covered in places.

Protection

normal rack
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
The base of the route can also be reached by a 55m abseil (as for Moonraker). This provides a high-tide approach, but you'll still want calm seas. The cliff is very overhanging, so make sure you start swinging unless you want to prusik back up or swim in to the starting ledge! Mar 18, 2013