For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in St Patrick's Buttress

Destiny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shamrock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
rampart T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
second coming T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P R Littlejohn, C A G Morton, 2nd April 1972
Page Views: 76 total · 1/month
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Oct 30, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Suggest Change]

The rightward-slanting crackline in the headwall. Protection is excellent and the climbing is sustained. Considered by Littlejohn to be his proudest crack climb at the time, and the hardest route on the island!

P1, 29m, 4b.
Starting directly beneath the left end of the crack, climb a groove (some suspect rock) then the slab above to a good belay beneath the crack. Often omitted, especially at high tide by abseiling in direct to this stance.

P2, 30m, 5c.
This is the main event! Set off up the slab aiming for the obvious crack. The angle steepens higher up and the difficulties don't let up. Follow the crack to it's end and move up on a good undercut to an easing at a sloping ledge. Finish more easily up the short corner to the right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A full rack of cams (doubles in thin hands) will make your lead a bit easier.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Destiny

Printer-Friendly