All Locations > International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > South West > Lundy > West Coast > Landing Craft Bay > St Patrick's Buttress
Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||P R Littlejohn, C A G Morton, 2nd April 1972|
|Page Views:||73 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Crimper E6 on Oct 30, 2012|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell|
DescriptionThe rightward-slanting crackline in the headwall. Protection is excellent and the climbing is sustained. Considered by Littlejohn to be his proudest crack climb at the time, and the hardest route on the island!
P1, 29m, 4b.
Starting directly beneath the left end of the crack, climb a groove (some suspect rock) then the slab above to a good belay beneath the crack. Often omitted, especially at high tide by abseiling in direct to this stance.
P2, 30m, 5c.
This is the main event! Set off up the slab aiming for the obvious crack. The angle steepens higher up and the difficulties don't let up. Follow the crack to it's end and move up on a good undercut to an easing at a sloping ledge. Finish more easily up the short corner to the right.