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Pete's Lead

5.7, Trad, TR, 40 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 28 votes
FA: Pete
Illinois > Jackson Falls > C. N Falls > A. Royal Arches Wall

Pete's Lead (great for beginning trad lead climbers)

Easy well-protected lead. The crux is mid-way up where the crack widens and the flake becomes bulbous making it tough to lie back. The crux has a couple of vertical mail slot pockets on the left face that are easy to miss. Above the crux it becomes an easy scramble to the finish where a horizontal crack takes gear to protect on the short traverse right to the anchors for the sport route, Smidgin.


Pete's Lead is to the left of Smidgin. The start is a left tilting ramp leading to the crack. Get down by using the anchors for Smidgin provided it is not being used, or if the party on Smidgin doesn't mind sharing.


C4 Cam sizes .5 through 4. (4 is good at the crux but eliminates a solid fist jam)

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Cleaning Pete's.
[Hide Photo] Cleaning Pete's.

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Nick Tripp
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] The gear is good, despite some flaring cracks that make it difficult if you are new to placements. Probably the best crack of it's grade in Jackson (which isn't saying much, but still). May 14, 2018