Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cantabaco, Toledo City, Cebu

Balite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Foot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bohemian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bungal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cacao V2+ 5+
Cantabaco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinnamon Pwet S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Djols S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Haight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Itchy Flutterby T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Sparrow S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Natre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh Baby! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Partner in climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pork Barrel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pumping Station S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sadako S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Son of Slash S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsa Mani Mikko S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Victim, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Vina Kulafu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vulva S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Flower S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Mackie Makinano
Page Views: 271 total, 4/month
Shared By: Rajiv Ayyangar on Oct 28, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

"Unsa Mani" for short, this route can feel reachy, even if you're over 6ft. The route starts on a multi-hold with several different ways to grip it, depending on your particular strengths. Do you like pinches? pockets? underclings? crimps? You'll find many ways to do the start, but all of them are easier if you are tall.

At the second bolt, traverse right on sharp pockets, and pull a few moderate moves to the unique crux, involving a difficult clip and a large expanse of blank limestone that must be somehow bypassed. A core of steel is helpful, or failing that, a 6-foot-plus ape-index yields alternate, easier beta. If you're discouraged like I was initially, take heart: the first ascensionist stands all of 5'2" tall.

After navigating the first tufa section, get a no-hands then traverse left into a pumpy finish. If you forget footwork and try to thug your way through this, you may be in for a heartbreaker, as the top does not yield easily. The 35-foot extension is also worth doing ("Roller Coaster", 5.12c/d)

Location

Area 5, just right of the popular 5.11 Vina Kulafu, and is located two routes left of White Flower. Look for a crazy lumpy polished hold with an undercling pocket in the lower part, and a pinch at the top.

Protection

7 bolts + ring anchors. Extension requires 8 additional draws for a total of 15, plus ring anchors.
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
 
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
 
Thanks for taking those, Eric! I'd forgotten you were shooting that day. Nov 13, 2012