Unsa Mani Mikko
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 55 ft|
|Page Views:||280 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Rajiv Ayyangar on Oct 28, 2012|
Description"Unsa Mani" for short, this route can feel reachy, even if you're over 6ft. The route starts on a multi-hold with several different ways to grip it, depending on your particular strengths. Do you like pinches? pockets? underclings? crimps? You'll find many ways to do the start, but all of them are easier if you are tall.
At the second bolt, traverse right on sharp pockets, and pull a few moderate moves to the unique crux, involving a difficult clip and a large expanse of blank limestone that must be somehow bypassed. A core of steel is helpful, or failing that, a 6-foot-plus ape-index yields alternate, easier beta. If you're discouraged like I was initially, take heart: the first ascensionist stands all of 5'2" tall.
After navigating the first tufa section, get a no-hands then traverse left into a pumpy finish. If you forget footwork and try to thug your way through this, you may be in for a heartbreaker, as the top does not yield easily. The 35-foot extension is also worth doing ("Roller Coaster", 5.12c/d)