Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Mackie Makinano
Page Views: 304 total · 4/month
Shared By: Rajiv Ayyangar on Oct 28, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Description

"Unsa Mani" for short, this route can feel reachy, even if you're over 6ft. The route starts on a multi-hold with several different ways to grip it, depending on your particular strengths. Do you like pinches? pockets? underclings? crimps? You'll find many ways to do the start, but all of them are easier if you are tall.

At the second bolt, traverse right on sharp pockets, and pull a few moderate moves to the unique crux, involving a difficult clip and a large expanse of blank limestone that must be somehow bypassed. A core of steel is helpful, or failing that, a 6-foot-plus ape-index yields alternate, easier beta. If you're discouraged like I was initially, take heart: the first ascensionist stands all of 5'2" tall.

After navigating the first tufa section, get a no-hands then traverse left into a pumpy finish. If you forget footwork and try to thug your way through this, you may be in for a heartbreaker, as the top does not yield easily. The 35-foot extension is also worth doing ("Roller Coaster", 5.12c/d)

Location

Area 5, just right of the popular 5.11 Vina Kulafu, and is located two routes left of White Flower. Look for a crazy lumpy polished hold with an undercling pocket in the lower part, and a pinch at the top.

Protection

7 bolts + ring anchors. Extension requires 8 additional draws for a total of 15, plus ring anchors.
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
  5.12a
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
  5.12a
Thanks for taking those, Eric! I'd forgotten you were shooting that day. Nov 13, 2012