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Routes in Cascade Cliff

Cascade Lichen Dance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Jesse Williams and Bill Schneider 2001
Page Views: 343 total, 6/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Oct 28, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A quality "technical face" (i.e. slab) climb with a tricky crux for the confident 5.10 leader. This climb is only burdened by a lack of other quality lines in its proximity. There is adventure to be had by the obscurist connoisseur.

Start to the right and climb the slabby left leaning ramp to the first bolt (hard to see from the ground). Pull thin balancey moves to the second bolt (also hard to see from the ground), and then follow 3 more bolts to the base of the right-leaning small corner (small tcu). Pull a hard move exiting the corner (bolt) and proceed up easier rock to the short and steep crux headwall. Decode the crux and gain a sloping ledge with a left-facing corner on its right side (fixed pin). Exit the corner into a right-facing flake system (pin, keep an eye out for it) and easier terrain to the fixed anchor on a sloping ledge.

Location

Start: On the right side of the wall on the white lichen spotted section of rock between the deep dark arching roof system on the right and the leaning roof on the left.
Leave the car, cross the wooden bridge, then try to find a path that leads around the lake towards the cliff. Staying higher away from the water might be drier. Once you hit the talus field, keep an eye on the start of the route and pick your way through it. There is a non-trivial amount of vegetation in spots that might make navigation more complicated in the summer. The base features a dirty headwall with a slabby left-leaning ramp to the right.
Descent: Double rope rappel to the ground

Protection

Fixed protection: 8 bolts, 2 pins, 2 bolt anchor.
Bring TCUs and small stoppers. A finger size tcu was helpful to protect the move to the crux headwall bolt which was, to me, a little committing. Take a few shoulder length slings as the route wanders in a couple spots and rope drag can be an issue if the typical 4-inch dogbone quickdraws are used.

Photos

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Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Awkward crux. Aug 28, 2014