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American Dream

5.11, Sport, 250 ft, 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 16 votes
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
California > Inland Empire > Riverside Quarry > (d) Roof Area
Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

One of the few Multi pitch routes at the quarry. Pitch 1 goes at .11b. Pitch 2 is some really awesome 5.10a low angle slab lybacking. Pitch 3 is an 7 bolt traverse under the roof to anchor number 3.Pitch 4 is .11c to shuts. Stellar climbing on small holds and beautiful exposure.

Location

Just right of Catch 22. Roof area

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

American Dream
[Hide Photo] American Dream
Briezi rounding the end of pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Briezi rounding the end of pitch 3
Knocked a death block off at the P1 crux. Luckily, I was following, not leading, so my belayer was safely above.
[Hide Photo] Knocked a death block off at the P1 crux. Luckily, I was following, not leading, so my belayer was safely above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] A QUALITY route with such variety of climbing styles. Face climbing , crack climbing ( fingers to fists ), traverse, liebacking..... Dont know what took me so long to notice this climb.

The pitches are very short, but if you're looking to get a variety of climbing, and smooth out your multipitch game, this route is very enjoyable.

Felt the route went pretty easy , but the 11c crux is the last few moves on small crimps/pockets to reach the anchors. Save a little gas for the end. Jul 19, 2014
[Hide Comment] Anyone know the rappel beta for this route? Jul 29, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Since the route has short pitches and P3 traverses out of the pit under the roof, Rap from P3 anchors should bring you to the ground with a 60m if I remember correctly. Sep 1, 2016
[Hide Comment] Correct. You can lower or rap from the top of P4 to top of P3. A 60m will get you down from there. There are rap rings above the cold shuts on P4 with a fantastic perch for a top-belay; great view from here. Nov 8, 2016
Scott Coffin
Riverside, CA
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Bring some hand sanitizer for when you get down because the 2nd pitch is completely caked in bird shit (including some of the bolts). Also, make sure your second is comfortable with 5.11, because the traverse on the 3rd pitch will be scary for them if they're not. Overall a fun route! The 4th pitch is short but very enjoyable. Easily rap from the top of the 3rd pitch to the ground with a 70 meter. Mar 5, 2018