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Casual Sex

5.8, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 60 votes
FA: Jim Beyer, 1977
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Practice Cliffs
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Nice hand crack the leads to a short OW section to a V-slot finish.

Location

In between the 5.6 chimney and the 10- corner Flake route.
Approach trail leads directly to this climb.

Protection

gear to 3"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

approaching the OW section
[Hide Photo] approaching the OW section
Very casual !
[Hide Photo] Very casual !
relaxed and "casual" climbing. <br> Minimal commitment.
[Hide Photo] relaxed and "casual" climbing. Minimal commitment.
battling the crack
[Hide Photo] battling the crack
Grand views from the belay station.
[Hide Photo] Grand views from the belay station.
Sam in the V
[Hide Photo] Sam in the V
High on Casual Sex
[Hide Photo] High on Casual Sex
Casually starting this pleasant route
[Hide Photo] Casually starting this pleasant route
Bring some replacement webbing (or chains & links, if your are feeling generous) when you go. The anchor webbing needs a little TLC and I was fresh out at the end of the day. I was a fool and didn't cut this off. It is fraying on the right anchor.
[Hide Photo] Bring some replacement webbing (or chains & links, if your are feeling generous) when you go. The anchor webbing needs a little TLC and I was fresh out at the end of the day. I was a fool and didn'…
Rapping off
[Hide Photo] Rapping off
Working down climbing after topping out.
[Hide Photo] Working down climbing after topping out.
Working mid section. Great protection across the entire route.
[Hide Photo] Working mid section. Great protection across the entire route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Walt Barker
Western NC
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Great climb. OW section is worth it. Feb 18, 2014
J Roatch
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Very enjoyable! Mar 23, 2014
Jeff K
[Hide Comment] The anchor for this climb included a fixed pin and a button head or rivet head bolt with a hanger. Oct 29, 2014
Goofy JungleMan
[Hide Comment] Bring some replacement webbing (or chains & links, if your are feeling generous) when you go. The anchor webbing needs a little TLC and I was fresh out at the end of the day. Oct 25, 2018
Chad Hamre
Nederland, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this this afternoon. Was covered pretty dirty. Anchor could use some love. May 14, 2019
Sandy Sarah
moab utah
[Hide Comment] For better or for worse you gotta take a shuttle or bike to turn onto Zion canyon scenic drive (the road this climbing wall is on). Can't take your car. Gotta get shuttle tickets at the visitor center. We walked the mile and a half.. annoyed at having to pay for a shuttle. found out a mile into the hike it costs one whole dollar! Dang it! Nov 1, 2020