Mentioned under the Coatimundi Whiteout (5.11) route I thought this deserved to be added as is it's likely the best moderate link-up on the mountain.
P1: Start on CW with a 5.8 pitch to a bolted belay.
P2: Continue in the corner system 5.9 to another bolted belay just over the roof. P1 and 2 will link with a 70m but it's a stretch with the hardest climbing right at the end. NOTE: A traverse to the left in the middle of the pitch is noted in the Falcon guide, it may be easier but probably not for the 5.7 leader as it traverses unprotected on small flakes.
P3: Consider scrambling on easy terrain to the inside corner of the Great Roof on another bolted belay. From there ascend the inside corner of the roof and make a wild a exposed traverse pitch under the roof to the right side to an obvious gear belay under a crack.
P4: Climb a crack over an "ear" roof and take it to the top. It's been said that the small roof moves are 5.10 but I didn't think so.
Start on Coatimundi Whiteout, finish exiting the Great Roof on the right side (Candyland).
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1- head upwards toward the ramp. The route stays in the shade until late morning.
[Hide Photo] Coming around the bend on the Great Roof pitch. Phenomenal belay ledge, incredible position. All smiles for the last 2 pitches on this classic! Photo by TK
[Hide Photo] Me rope soloing back up the original route (P2). A good view into that gorgeous hand crack. Some serious traverses, though, that aren't bad lead soloing, but then heady going back down and up again…
[Hide Photo] KevinD gettin some of the good stuff, bird poop!
[Hide Photo] Bolted belays not marked on this pic. The second bolted belay would be just out of view here.