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Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup

5.9, Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 39 votes
FA: Old School
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Prescott Areas > Granite Mountain > Middle Section
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Mentioned under the Coatimundi Whiteout (5.11) route I thought this deserved to be added as is it's likely the best moderate link-up on the mountain.

P1: Start on CW with a 5.8 pitch to a bolted belay.

P2: Continue in the corner system 5.9 to another bolted belay just over the roof. P1 and 2 will link with a 70m but it's a stretch with the hardest climbing right at the end. NOTE: A traverse to the left in the middle of the pitch is noted in the Falcon guide, it may be easier but probably not for the 5.7 leader as it traverses unprotected on small flakes.

P3: Consider scrambling on easy terrain to the inside corner of the Great Roof on another bolted belay. From there ascend the inside corner of the roof and make a wild a exposed traverse pitch under the roof to the right side to an obvious gear belay under a crack.

P4: Climb a crack over an "ear" roof and take it to the top. It's been said that the small roof moves are 5.10 but I didn't think so.

Location

Start on Coatimundi Whiteout, finish exiting the Great Roof on the right side (Candyland).

Protection

Doubles to C4 #3 plus a #4 might help.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The traverse under the roof on the "candyland" finish. Good fun!
[Hide Photo] The traverse under the roof on the "candyland" finish. Good fun!
The original route with traverse on pitch 2
[Hide Photo] The original route with traverse on pitch 2
Pitch 1- head upwards toward the ramp. The route stays in the shade until late morning.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1- head upwards toward the ramp. The route stays in the shade until late morning.
Coming around the bend on the Great Roof pitch.  Phenomenal belay ledge, incredible position. All smiles for the last 2 pitches on this classic!
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Photo by TK
[Hide Photo] Coming around the bend on the Great Roof pitch. Phenomenal belay ledge, incredible position. All smiles for the last 2 pitches on this classic! Photo by TK
Me rope soloing back up the original route (P2). A good view into that gorgeous hand crack. Some serious traverses, though, that aren't bad lead soloing, but then heady going back down and up again. Pic by Isiah on Kingpin.
[Hide Photo] Me rope soloing back up the original route (P2). A good view into that gorgeous hand crack. Some serious traverses, though, that aren't bad lead soloing, but then heady going back down and up again…
KevinD gettin some of the good stuff, bird poop!
[Hide Photo] KevinD gettin some of the good stuff, bird poop!
Bolted belays not marked on this pic. The second bolted belay would be just out of view here.
[Hide Photo] Bolted belays not marked on this pic. The second bolted belay would be just out of view here.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bobby Treadwell
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Classic link up! Oct 25, 2012
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] if you're not traversing on the second pitch bring some etxra 2's and 3's, maybe a 4. i ran out of gear and ended up climbing the last 25 feet or so unprotected. beware the bag of sand. before making the crux moves on the fifth pitch take a second to look past your feet Nov 26, 2012
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Anyway to change the name to Coatamundi -> Candyland, since that's what this linkup is commonly referred to? CW finishes out left under the great roof, so "Great Roof Finish" isn't really accurate.

The traverse on the second pitch mentioned above is the route of the first ascentionists and shouldn't be missed. Head left on small edges and flakes toward a hanging crack in the middle of the face. This section is unprotected, but the hardest moves are right out of the chimney. Climb the hand to OW crack (save some big cams #3, 4, 5 camelot) until it peters out, moving right to 2 bolts on a block. Either belay here, or clip the anchor and continue up a low angle wide crack to a belay under the Great Roof. Due to the wandering nature of this pitch, good runner work is necessary to avoid paralyzing rope drag. Pitch is about 180' if taken to the anchors under the Great Roof.

The last pitch is pretty standard GM 5.9 Oct 28, 2013
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely a super classic old school route. Tests your skills on everything from chimney to off width to some face climbing. On the 2nd pitch the original route traverses left 2/3 of the way up (when the chimney narrows to a #4 placement) on thin flakes for about 10 feet to a smaller left facing corner. If you conine straight up instead it will be a more difficult #5 offwidth. Was glad to have a 4 and 5 camalot for pitch 4 traverse. Oct 22, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Have now done this several times the direct way and the original way, rope soloing the original way to avoid the burl fest on the direct route. I had always liked the direct way as the straightest line, but find the original way to be much more elegant and fun. Delicate face moves out right from the top of the off-width chimney section, good gear before turning the corned into a sweet hand crack with lots of face features. Another delicate traverse to get to the anchors and it's great fun! Oct 10, 2017
[Hide Comment] Fun route! I found the second pitch quite burly... Go up the chimney/offwidth using face holds and traverse left when the crack widens. The traverse is unprotected on small holds, but not difficult. Bring lots of runners and continue up to the bolted anchors just below the roof. Traversing under the roof and the last pitch are awesome! Dec 15, 2017