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The Black Mama
5.13-,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> Grand Junction…
> Unaweep Canyon
> Gateway Vicinit…
> Gateway
> Palisade
Description
The Black Mama climbs an impressive crack system on the west side of the Palisade.
The climb is named after a nearby uranium mine that operated throughout the 1960s. FFA by Joe Mills.
P1: Climb 5.10 hands.
P2: Go up a difficult, thin hands splitter through a roof (5.12) to a roof. Punch in some small gear, then traverse left out the roof (5.11+), and then go up a left-facing corner to the belay.
P3: Climb the impressive overhanging finger and thin hands splitter. Save some #3 Camalots for a section before the anchors.
Descent: rappel the route with 2 ropes. Since P3 overhangs, take care not to get stranded out in space.
[Hide Photo] There are 2 unknown routes to the left (old Charlie Fowler routes?) - we were unable to find any information. If you have information, please contact me or contribute to this site!
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