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Routes in The Palisade

Black Mama, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Immoral Disapproval T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nachoooo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,157 total, 19/month
Shared By: Scotty Nelson on Oct 24, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The route climbs the east side of the Palisade prow.

P1: Climb a short, 5.10, hands splitter to a large ledge, 30'.

P2: Go up an offwidth (5.10) to an alcove (optional gear belay). Continue up a left-facing corner to a bolted anchor below the obvious splitter.

P3: Climb the hands to fingers to hands splitter (100') ending on a ledge with bolted anchors.

Descent: rappel the route with 2 ropes.

Protection

Triple set to #4, extra #1s for the crux pitch.
I took 2 #4s and a #5, and that was nice on the second pitch. You can do the route with one 80m rope, and you do not need to take a tag line for the raps. Also you can leave all the gear bigger than 3 inch at the top of pitch two, you do not need it for the last pitch.
Finally, the beginning of pitch two has a LOOSE pillar/block, be very careful about moving about on it. I was able to sway it but not remove it 'cause it's 20ft tall.
Otherwise, great route! Feb 10, 2013