Trad, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 2
FA: James Debella/Eric Bretthauer
> A: Lake Champla…
> Poke-O-Moonshine Seco…
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
This line is short but tremendously fun. About 15 feet left of Pollen Junkies is a short corner crack marked by a large roof at its top. Climb the short slab to gain the corner crack. Stem and jam the crack to the base of the roof (#4). Heel hook, lie back, and enjoy. The route ends at the slung pine tree directly above.
Second Tier, 100yds right of The Hand Crack Boulder
small rack up to #1 plus a #4 for the roof