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Routes in Samazar Valley

Firesword T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Emma Alsford, Paul Donnithorne (AL)
Page Views: 367 total · 5/month
Shared By: Emma Alsford on Oct 22, 2012
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Description

A nicely sustained climb throughout with no real cruxes. Really varied and on immaculate quartzite. Guidebook description:
Another superlative route with four varied, immaculate pitches up cracks and corners in the golden pillar. A fine companion to Brisingr, starting as for that route.
1 60m 5b Climb up to the small tree to gain the slab on the right. Some tricky moves gain and climb the crack in the orange side wall of Brisingr, which leads to a final steep move up a flake to gain ledges at the top. Continue up to a belay by a shallow groove right of a block.
2 40m 5a Climb the shallow groove, moving right into a wide crack and trend rightwards up cracks to a ledge and tree belay.
3 40m 5b Ascend the big crack steeply and its left-hand fork, to a point on the left side of the golden pillar near Brisingr. Move right along a break and continue up the face rightwards to a good ledge below the final upper corner. This is 3 metres left of a large vegetated corner to the right.
4 30m 5b Move up a steep flake/crack and the black stain for 10 metres, passing a black spike, to a traverse right into the steep corner/chimney which is followed with sustained interest to the top.

Location

Located on the Main Wall at Dragon Buttress, only a 10 minute fairly level walk from Tamdakrt at the bottom of the Samazar Valley. The golden 'sword-like' pillar feature can be seen from Safinah and The Fortress (but not from the approach Samazar Valley track).

Protection

A standard 'Morocco' trad rack i.e a good set of cams up to size 4, maybe also some hexes useful, and plentiful slings for extending runners. No fixed gear in the route - a pleasant ridge scramble off right to descend.

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