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Oblivion

5.11a/b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 27 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Echo Basin > Sunshine's Lowe… > (f) Fat & Skinny Man…

Description

Hard-to-read moves through the initial roof lead toward a huge jug. Without the right sequence, the jug seems improbably far away. Clip the second bolt from the jug, side-pull your way to the third bolt (keeping your cool as a fall before clipping the third would be nasty), and finish on easier climbing.

Location

Immediately right of Monsters Under My Monster's Bed

Protection

5 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling off the first jugs at the start of Oblivion
[Hide Photo] Pulling off the first jugs at the start of Oblivion

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] As said above, this is a dangerous route, I don't usually bring a stick clip to Vantage but the first clip is scary as well as the 2nd and 3rd. Oct 31, 2014
And Wilk
Espanola, NM
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Two things about this one:
1) I don't think its as dangerous as advertised. The first two bolts are going to keep you off the ground doing those hard moves. The third one is definitely not great and there is shit to clip from. I still think an attentive belayer could keep you safe through this whole thing.

2) This is definitely harder than the 11a next door. The start moves to the jug are pretty unique and challenging to read.

This is a great climb with a short, tough section right off the bat. Mar 26, 2017
Hank Thompson
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The rock quality on the upper section of this route is pretty suspect (even for vantage), I pulled off a softball size chunk of rock that nearly hit my belayer. Personally, I would not climb this route again due to the rock quality, 15 feet of fun 11- climbing into 30 feet of super chossy 10a climbing is not worth seriously injuring your belayer or another party at the base. Sep 20, 2021