The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The
District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A
bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have
some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow
Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any
current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the
District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief:
Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north:
Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north:
Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Vancouver, BC
I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.
You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."
For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning. Jul 1, 2013
Idyllwild, CA
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Bend, OR
I was happy to have a #4 but you didn't need it. Save a green camalot for above the rail. Aug 5, 2014
Seattle, WA
Anyway, I was also surprised I didn't need big cams on this. I placed a single 3 near the top, which I was glad to have but probably would have been fine without. Left the 4 in the pack, and I don't have a 5. I don't think I used doubles of anything, but I did use down to a .3 X4.
I didn't actually chimney, just walked up the ramp. Are other people using proper chimney technique?
Definitely easier than it looks but physical. If you like bigger hand jams and monkeying up with your upper body, this trad climb is for you. Ed's point about the edge below the anchors is good, it's probably not going to kill your rope but it's kinda ugly. I don't think toprope sessioning this is really feasible anyway though. Aug 25, 2014
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Vancouver,
Vancouver, BC
All the gear recommendations here are on point, this climb takes everything. Save a green camalot for when you get out of the chimney. I didn't place anything bigger than a #3, but if you want to sew it up take doubles of hand/fist sized gear.
For cleaning the route, seconding someone up and having them clean would be ideal. I was the only one in my party climbing it so I cleaned it on rappel, which was manageable but definitely not preferred. Sep 3, 2017
Salt Lake City, UT
Squamish, BC
College Station, TX
Very fun movement, very good gear, and some pretty good rests that help keep the grade relatively low.
Easier than the worlds toughest milkman, and somewhat similar in style. Jul 16, 2024