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The Reacharound

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 281 votes
FA: Colin Moorehead, Damien Kelly, 1997
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Murrin Park > Lakeside in the Woods
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description

Follow a steep hand and fingers crack in a right facing corner to just below a chimney/roof. Make a traverse right along a crack then climb up into the chimney. Climb cracks on the wall that lead out of the chimney to the top of the wall. A fantastic route, and very atypical for Squamish.

Location

At the north end (right side) of Lakeside in the Woods.

Protection

The route takes a variety of gear from Metolius 2 (yellow) up to Black Diamond 4 or equivalent. Double up on mid-size (BD 0.5 to 1).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

light ahead
[Hide Photo] light ahead
Renee at the steepness
[Hide Photo] Renee at the steepness
Doesn't get much steeper at 5.9 in Squamish!
[Hide Photo] Doesn't get much steeper at 5.9 in Squamish!
Jul enjoying his time inside the chimney
[Hide Photo] Jul enjoying his time inside the chimney
Kevin leading The Reacharound.
[Hide Photo] Kevin leading The Reacharound.
Not as bad as it looks - lots of stemming and footholds.
[Hide Photo] Not as bad as it looks - lots of stemming and footholds.
Nice  no hands rest here! You can stem, or even sit!
[Hide Photo] Nice no hands rest here! You can stem, or even sit!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Realest 5.9 I've ever climbed.

I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.

You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."

For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning. Jul 1, 2013
Alex Jacques
Idyllwild, CA
[Hide Comment] this climb is phenomenal and reminds me of the gunks. Jul 3, 2014
Melissa Thaw
South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I think this route would be rated 5.6 or 5.7 if it was in the Sierra because there are so many rests on big ledges and tons of gear that's easy to place. The hand jams made it easier, too. Jul 5, 2014
Ed kelly
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb. Has great moves, solid pro, and big rests. I think you could do this with almost any rack, there is such a variety of cracks and flakes you can place practically any piece from any stance. I placed everything from 0 mastercam to #4 c4, but needed neither. One note though, if you plan on top roping it might be a good idea to bring something to extend the anchor about 8 feet. The edge is quite sharp and rough on the rope if you want to lower over it. It is also not really feasible to clean your gear on rappel. Jul 13, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Totally fun. I hand traversed out the big rail and made it harder for myself (accidently). My partners simply worked up into the chimney for a move. Duh. That made way more sense.

I was happy to have a #4 but you didn't need it. Save a green camalot for above the rail. Aug 5, 2014
AndySkol
Seattle, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] MelissaThaw's rating is obviously bogus, probably trolling. Once you get slightly off the deck there's nothing you can hit, and plenty of pro. Not PG13. Also, 5.6 or 7?

Anyway, I was also surprised I didn't need big cams on this. I placed a single 3 near the top, which I was glad to have but probably would have been fine without. Left the 4 in the pack, and I don't have a 5. I don't think I used doubles of anything, but I did use down to a .3 X4.

I didn't actually chimney, just walked up the ramp. Are other people using proper chimney technique?

Definitely easier than it looks but physical. If you like bigger hand jams and monkeying up with your upper body, this trad climb is for you. Ed's point about the edge below the anchors is good, it's probably not going to kill your rope but it's kinda ugly. I don't think toprope sessioning this is really feasible anyway though. Aug 25, 2014
Melissa Thaw
South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] whoops, PG13 was a mistake - sorry! yes, lots of great pro! I still think it is not a 5.9, though! Sep 20, 2014
Curt Doeswhathedoes
Vancouver,
[Hide Comment] Curious on how others approach retrieving their gear on this climb? as the sharper block near the anchor is a little bugger. Jul 26, 2017
Khoi
Vancouver, BC
[Hide Comment] I had my second clean the route on his way up Aug 16, 2017
[Hide Comment] This route felt like wrestling a bear, what a climb. I was sore head to toe the next day.

All the gear recommendations here are on point, this climb takes everything. Save a green camalot for when you get out of the chimney. I didn't place anything bigger than a #3, but if you want to sew it up take doubles of hand/fist sized gear.

For cleaning the route, seconding someone up and having them clean would be ideal. I was the only one in my party climbing it so I cleaned it on rappel, which was manageable but definitely not preferred. Sep 3, 2017
Erik Misiak
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] If you don't use the ramp on the right, the splitter crack goes at about 5.11, felt like Annunaki! Aug 23, 2019
gyokuro
 
[Hide Comment] Wow fun, and wow, pumpy! I brought up a 5" but it wasn't really necessary. The foot traverse is easy to protect with a 3" and/or 4" if you so desire, and once you traverse around the corner, it's easy climbing to the top with 0.5" to 1" pieces. I had major rope drag at the top though, so try to be aware of rope management unlike me! Update: The anchor has been moved to a less rope drag-y position now, which is really helpful seconding and lowering! Aug 5, 2020
Rowan Springfield
Squamish, BC
[Hide Comment] The hand traverse below the chimney was fun but unnecessary. My partner just carried on up into the chimney which looked more relaxing and less runout Sep 14, 2020
Alexandros Kazantzidis
College Station, TX
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This would be 5.3 in my local crag, we're nothing like those sierra Gumbys.

Very fun movement, very good gear, and some pretty good rests that help keep the grade relatively low.
Easier than the worlds toughest milkman, and somewhat similar in style. Jul 16, 2024