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Routes in Eagles Nest

Bromancing The Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Out For Blood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FRA: Dustin Hoover, Christopher Powers. September 2012.
Page Views: 678 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rudeboy on Oct 19, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Excellent route. Offers a variety of climbing techniques. Bullet stone! Pitch one and two have definetely been climbed before, but 3 and 4 looked like it was all on us.

P1: Climb white rock Starting on a boulder to your right. A short and easy runout above the boulder will gain a left treding crack into the corner. Build a belay above scrub oak. 100ft.

P2: Now on red bullet stone, Climb through a short but perfect,somewhat mossy lieback corner. I climbed the crack on right, you could take an offwidth 4ft left. Gain easy lowangle ground, stay left toward an akward squeeze chimney and pull through it. Build a belay on big ledge.

P3: The money pitch! Start chimney or face climb on the crack on the right. Sick moves around a scrub oak to an excellent crack. Build a belay near another scrub 100ft. The crack on the left has been climbed before, as we could see a bolt about 40 feet up in an offwidth chimney section.

P4:Finish up easier ground and top out!

Location

This route is on the dark blood red wall just south of eagles nest area.(north facing). Slick looking varnished Twin cracks about halfway up cant be missed. Bring alot of webbing, hope your not scared of trees and saplings for descent.

Protection

We did it on a rack to 3" with one each 4" and 5" cams. No Bolts or fixed gear. Bring plenty of webbing.

Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Nice looking route. Cool to see some people getting after it down there sans bolts. Oct 26, 2012