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Quien Sabe Glacier

4th Easy Snow PG13, Snow, Alpine,  Avg: 3.1 from 49 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Northwest Region > N Cascades > Boston Basin > Sahale Peak

Description

From Boston Basin, ascend along the left (North) side of the Quien Sabe glacier until you reach the base of Sharkfin Tower between the summits of Sahale and Boston Peak. Traverse South along the base of the rock face until you reach the col. The glacier is steeper here and be sure to watch for crevasses. Traverse exposed snow to reach the loose class 3 summit scramble. Watch out for a cornice that lasts into early summer.

Location

From Marblemount, drive east on Cascade River road 21.7 miles to the fork. At 3200 feet, follow the abandoned Diamond Mine road for .75 miles and then follow the trail across 4 stream crossings over the next half mile. There are camping sites at a little over 5000 feet and 6000 feet with compost toilets. To get to the basin it is a 3 hour hike on a unmaintained climbers trail. Boston Basin is a very popular location for climbers because of its beautiful scenery and alpine grandeur.

Protection

A few Slings for the 4th class summit block, maybe a few pickets for the steeper snow sections.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ridge below summit scramble
[Hide Photo] Ridge below summit scramble
Cornice that forms in early season
[Hide Photo] Cornice that forms in early season
Quien Sabe glacier in August 2019. The route we (and others) used is depicted.
[Hide Photo] Quien Sabe glacier in August 2019. The route we (and others) used is depicted.
The final snow traverse and rock summit of Sahale in 8/2019. The rock ahead had a few moves of low 5th class that was readily down-climbable. (Photo: Mark F.)
[Hide Photo] The final snow traverse and rock summit of Sahale in 8/2019. The rock ahead had a few moves of low 5th class that was readily down-climbable. (Photo: Mark F.)
Summit block in June protected by pickets + handful of slings.
[Hide Photo] Summit block in June protected by pickets + handful of slings.
Climbing up the Sahale Pyramid
[Hide Photo] Climbing up the Sahale Pyramid
Traversing towards the Sahale Pyramid
[Hide Photo] Traversing towards the Sahale Pyramid
Climbing up Boston Basin towards the Quien Sabe Glacier
[Hide Photo] Climbing up Boston Basin towards the Quien Sabe Glacier
Sunday traffic on the Quien Sabe Glacier as seen from Forbidden Peak
[Hide Photo] Sunday traffic on the Quien Sabe Glacier as seen from Forbidden Peak

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

SpencerB BB
Pasadena, CA
 
[Hide Comment] We chose to descend via the Sahale glacier instead of reversing the route and I would recommend doing the climb this way. It makes for a nice loop and probably a much easier descent since it is a much smaller and less crevassed glacier and the hiking trail down to the Sahale arm and back to the trail head is much easier than the trail up to the base of the Quien Sabe glacier. Jul 27, 2016
Jacob Wolniewicz
Seattle, WA
  4th
[Hide Comment] Not sure why its listed as PG 13. The 4th class rock portion eats up pro. Either bring one or two small cams or nuts. You could easily find horns to sling too if you don't want to carry gear up. Aug 14, 2017