Type: Aid, 540 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jeremy Aslaksen and Joe Forrester
Page Views: 1,736 total · 23/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Oct 17, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Start at the southernmost base of the tower. P1: Follow Beak seam to crack, then pendulum right into another loose beak seam. There is a very large, very detached flake on this pitch that the leader would be wise to not drop on his belayer. P2: A rope stretcher. Travel up and right to finally meet up with the Forrest/Briggs after 185 rope stretching feet. P3-4: Follow the Forrest/Briggs to the summit. P3 climbs the arete. P4 goes straight to the summit.


Southern end of the Citadel. The beak seam that you start on is pretty obvious.


5-#1 beaks, 5-#2 beaks, 5-#3 beaks, 2-3 spectres, triple rack of cams including offset aliens to #2 camalots, 2-#3 camalots, and a 4 and 5 camalot. On the first two pitches, no bolts were placed on lead. Two bolts are present on the top of P1 for an anchor.


Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.3 A2+
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.3 A2+
Dude, great summit. Persistence pays off. Nov 2, 2012
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.3 A2+
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.3 A2+
Nice work guys! Looks wild Apr 7, 2013
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.3 A2+
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.3 A2+
Great route guys. The original FA route looked like a junk show. Really enjoyed the wonderful and varied first two pitches. You both found a gem. Worthy of 4 stars! I will add that ALOT of #1 cams are useful. Unless you backclean all of them. P2 is a rope stretcher. Watch rope drag. Woohoo!! What a summit! Apr 9, 2018