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Routes in Citadel

Forrest/Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation), The 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a A2+
Let it Go (grade 6 A6) T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Aid, 540 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jeremy Aslaksen and Joe Forrester
Page Views: 1,316 total, 21/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Oct 17, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start at the southernmost base of the tower. P1: Follow Beak seam to crack, then pendulum right into another loose beak seam. There is a very large, very detached flake on this pitch that the leader would be wise to not drop on his belayer. P2: A rope stretcher. Travel up and right to finally meet up with the Forrest/Briggs after 185 rope stretching feet. P3-4: Follow the Forrest/Briggs to the summit. P3 climbs the arete. P4 goes straight to the summit.

Location

Southern end of the Citadel. The beak seam that you start on is pretty obvious.

Protection

5-#1 beaks, 5-#2 beaks, 5-#3 beaks, 2-3 spectres, triple rack of cams including offset aliens to #2 camalots, 2-#3 camalots, and a 4 and 5 camalot. On the first two pitches, no bolts were placed on lead. Two bolts are present on the top of P1 for an anchor.
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Nice work guys! Looks wild Apr 7, 2013
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Dude, great summit. Persistence pays off. Nov 2, 2012