Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,316 total · 17/month
Shared By: SM Ryan on Oct 16, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Echo Canyon Seasonal Closure: Jan. 1 - second Saturday in April Details

Description

It looks like this one is missing from the line-up on MP.

This climb starts out of the pit on a large lay-backish hold. Requires burly pulling and a heel-toe gimmick may help in this section. After the roof section, the head wall has some smaller crimps/feet.

Location

Starts on the left side of the pit

Protection

Bolts/quick-draws

Photos

- No Photos -
steve edwards
SLC, UT
  5.13b
steve edwards   SLC, UT
  5.13b
That might clear up some confusion here about grades. This start is much harder than Wicked Bender. Oct 16, 2012
bheller
SL UT
  5.13b
bheller   SL UT
  5.13b
This route is named The JJ memorial- no "derailed" exists on this wall.

I spoke with the developer of this wall today. He informed me of some mis-information here on MP. This route is called The JJ memorial- It was named in honor of a friend who worked at a climbing gym in park city and died tragically. JJ loved climbing at the dry wall.

JJ Memorial is a more direct start that shares its left-trending finish with Wicked Bender.

The start is a tricky move (V6/5) that uses a high right-facing sidepull (good hold) above a sandstone shelf within the cave. Technical climbing, great sequences, and hard pulls on shallow pockets characterize this great route. Feels like multiple boulder problems (V5/4) with a couple of marginal shakes. The lower section is a little sandy, but the orange stone at the top is beautiful- the climbing and the rock color remind me of the Churning Buttress routes at Smith Rock. High tech kneebar action seems to be the ticket (for some) with the boulder problem off the ground. Apr 10, 2013
SM Ryan
  5.13b
SM Ryan  
  5.13b
Who is the FA then? Jul 18, 2013
Kipp Schorr
  5.13b
Kipp Schorr  
  5.13b
A hold crumbled (surprise) lower on the route, just before the rightward traverse into the big two finger and jug (just below where you join Wicked Bender. If it wasn't 13b before, it is now. Just a tad bit harder and a little less pleasant. Jun 22, 2015
Leron
  5.13b
Leron  
  5.13b
I had been told this route became very difficult for folks under 5 ft 10 in and wanted to state it can be done at V6 at least for those 5 ft 7 in and above. I mention this because I had avoided this route for that reason and wanted to let others know they can get on it. Aug 25, 2016