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Routes in The Dry Wall

Can't Say S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conductor S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crazy Train, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graffiti Patient S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grushenka S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hear My Train A Comin' S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Its Right to be Frank S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
JJ Memorial S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Left Be Frank S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Red Rooster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lowe Route, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pit, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pocket Full of Trundles S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Precious, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Must Break S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stop that Terrain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 11 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Way Hammered S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wicked Bender S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,117 total, 18/month
Shared By: SM Ryan on Oct 16, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Echo Canyon Seasonal Closure: Jan. 1 - second Saturday in April Details

Description

It looks like this one is missing from the line-up on MP.

This climb starts out of the pit on a large lay-backish hold. Requires burly pulling and a heel-toe gimmick may help in this section. After the roof section, the head wall has some smaller crimps/feet.

Location

Starts on the left side of the pit

Protection

Bolts/quick-draws

Photos

- No Photos -
lech
  5.13b
lech  
  5.13b
I had been told this route became very difficult for folks under 5 ft 10 in and wanted to state it can be done at V6 at least for those 5 ft 7 in and above. I mention this because I had avoided this route for that reason and wanted to let others know they can get on it. Aug 25, 2016
Kipp Schorr
  5.13b
Kipp Schorr  
  5.13b
A hold crumbled (surprise) lower on the route, just before the rightward traverse into the big two finger and jug (just below where you join Wicked Bender. If it wasn't 13b before, it is now. Just a tad bit harder and a little less pleasant. Jun 22, 2015
SM Ryan
 
SM Ryan  
 
Who is the FA then? Jul 18, 2013
bheller
SL UT
  5.13b
bheller   SL UT
  5.13b
This route is named The JJ memorial- no "derailed" exists on this wall.

I spoke with the developer of this wall today. He informed me of some mis-information here on MP. This route is called The JJ memorial- It was named in honor of a friend who worked at a climbing gym in park city and died tragically. JJ loved climbing at the dry wall.

JJ Memorial is a more direct start that shares its left-trending finish with Wicked Bender.

The start is a tricky move (V6/5) that uses a high right-facing sidepull (good hold) above a sandstone shelf within the cave. Technical climbing, great sequences, and hard pulls on shallow pockets characterize this great route. Feels like multiple boulder problems (V5/4) with a couple of marginal shakes. The lower section is a little sandy, but the orange stone at the top is beautiful- the climbing and the rock color remind me of the Churning Buttress routes at Smith Rock. High tech kneebar action seems to be the ticket (for some) with the boulder problem off the ground. Apr 10, 2013
steve edwards
SLC, UT
  5.13b
steve edwards   SLC, UT
  5.13b
That might clear up some confusion here about grades. This start is much harder than Wicked Bender. Oct 16, 2012