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Routes in Unicorn

East Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South East Ridge/Unicorn T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown (FDA Bubb, 10/16/12)
Page Views: 60 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 16, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climb starts at the Southern end of the Unicorn, as for the SE Arete for about 150 feet. Follow that route to a rounded ledge below an overhang, where the SE arete goes south to a ramp at the overhang. Rather than go left and onto the sub-ramp of this Flatiron as for the original route, go up and right to a flake and a large horn of rock to the right in the middle of the overhang. Undercling and grasp good knobs to pull through the roof and establish yourself above this, then continue up the 5.4 face above this directly on the East Face proper to the summit.

Location

This climb starts at the Southern end of the Unicorn, as for the SE Arete. However, where the SE arete goes south to a ramp at the overhang, this route does not. It goes just right and through a weakness in the roof, then up the east face proper.

Protection

Looks like a standard light rack. A hand-sized cam MAY go near the crux. My ascent was unroped solo, and gear was not attempted.

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